Гендальф серый

Rock980 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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New route "Gendalf Seryy" 4A on the g. Treugolnik in Crimea, first ascent by D. Lesnoy, M. Berezhnoy in 2011, description of the route and approaches.

New route in Crimea on g. Treugolnik — “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

The bastion to the left of Treugolnik's main wall. Maybe it was climbed before, but it's not in the classifier and there are no descriptions anywhere. On the route, we didn't find any hooks or drill holes, nor any signs of previous passage. The first time we came with the intention to make a first ascent, we were unlucky with the weather — it was raining. So, we decided to just scout the approaches and get as close as possible to examine and photograph everything.

Gora Treugolnik, route “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

First ascent (2011): Dmitry Lesnoy, Maxim Berezhnoy (Kherson)

It turned into a whole reconnaissance expedition in harsh conditions :). We had never been under Treugolnik before, but knew it was possible to approach from the quarry. We decided to head straight to the bastion from the road through the forest, and return via the quarry to compare these two approach options. The second option, through the quarry, turned out to be much more convenient and readable. The second time, the decision to climb this route was practically spontaneous, the weather was favorable, and we completed it as a two-person team in 10 hours without using any technical equipment or hanging belays — everything was done on-sight by both participants.

Approach

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