Через Крокодил
Route Description: Через Крокодил
The "Crocodile" route on Turkevich Mt. is rated 6A, with a description of its passage and belays at 9 stages.
"Crocodile" Turkevich route, cat. 6A, 1976
Not reaching the "forest ranger's house" by 10 m, follow an obscure path to come under the wall. The start of the route is next to a large pine tree growing under the wall. R0–R1: ascend the broken rocks upwards, slightly left, to reach a small tree. The belay station is on the tree. 5a/5b, 30 m R1–R2: from the station, go right-upwards, 7 m, to under a ledge; under the ledge, traverse right to a bollard, 5-7 m. Further - upwards, through an overhang, 5 m, to an artificial aid, then - via a small internal corner - exit onto an inclined slab. Belay station. There is a bollard. 40 m, 6aA2 (the rope is hazardous - beware!) R2–R3: From the station, ascend leftwards, via an overhanging internal corner, then by free climbing, bypassing the overhanging ruin on the left, to reach the base of the "Crocodile" bulge. Ascend the cleft formed by the bulge and the wall to the top of the bulge. The belay station is on personal anchors. 50 m, 6A R3–R4: From the station, descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge. Further, ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards, to under a heavily destroyed overhang. From here, perform a complex traverse left, 5-7 m, then ascend the cleft to a small juniper.
- Descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge
- Ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards
- Pass under the heavily destroyed overhang
- Perform a complex traverse left (5-7 m)
Route Description: Через Крокодил
6A category route to the top of Kilse-Buroun via wall traverse and "Crocodile" following M. Turkevich's itinerary.
Kilse — Burun — 15
Up the red wall's centre via Crocodile belay (Crocodile), 6A (M. Turkevich's route, 1976)