M-t Denisenko 5B (1977)

R0­–­R1 Start to the left of a large juniper on crumbling reddish rocks, before reaching a ledge, traverse right to a cleft. Climb the cleft to a more gentle section, make a logical move left. Belay station behind a huge boulder. 55 m VI R1­–­R2 Climb the cleft, in the direction of an overhanging, open chimney. Climb the chimney, using some aid (large hexes, 10­–­12 cm cams), pass the overhang, then continue up a corner. Belay station on a piton. 50 m VI A2 R2­–­R3 Climb the corner, trending right onto a long ledge. Belay station on the ledge, on personal anchors. 50 m VI 3–4 Climb the cleft, then an inside corner; belay station in the upper part of the corner (own). The first ascensionists climbed a corner on the left, but it is worse – lots of vegetation, loose rocks. 45–50 m V+ 4–5 Exit onto a large terrace. III 30 m 5–6 Traverse left along the terrace, then climb simple rocks to the yayla. 150 m II

Kilse-Burun — 10.

Left edge of the central wall, 5B (VI, 45 m) (by P. Denisenko, 1977)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the camping site. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it, under a small rusty cornice (R0: 200 m, 20°, I). On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up a sheer, crumbling wall to a small shelf under a cornice (R1–R2: 35 m, 80°, V). On section R2–R3 — ascend an overhanging, crumbling wall, bypassing the cornice on the right via a thin crack. The station is above the cornice on a small ledge (R2–R3: 20 m, 95°, VIA2). On section R3–R4 — ascend a small, overhanging crack to a 10-meter chimney. In the lower part, it is quite wide with smooth walls, making it difficult to enter. Above the chimney, move up through an overhang to a small ledge (R3–R4: 25 m, 85°, VI; 20 m, 80°, V). On section R4–R5 — ascend a crack filled with earth and grass to the base of a large, long internal corner resembling an open book. This is how it got its corresponding name (R4–R5: 60 m, 75°–80°, V). On section R5–R8 — ascend 120 m up the internal corner "Book" to reach a large terrace. This is where the main part of the route ends (R5–R8: 120 m, 75°–80°, V). Along the terrace (section R8–plateau), move slightly left and then 120 m up simple rocks to the summit plateau (R8–plateau: 120 m, 50°, I). The length of the main route is about 400 m. The ascent takes 6–8 hours.