Ворота с началом слева

Rock559 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
0

A 5B category route runs along the center of the wall with sheer sections and difficult climbing moves, passing in close proximity to water.

(V. Lendel (Uzhgorod), V. Kostrichenko, V. Zasypkin, Kh. Kornys, E. Umanets, V. Klataevsky, A. Larionov (Simferopol), V. Kulyamin (Yalta), 1973) 5B VI A2 535 m (12 pitches). Average passage time 7–9 hours. The route passes through the center of the wall, in its most extensive part. Two vertical cracks, converging in the direction of each other in the middle of the wall, form gates through which the route line passes. Due to the fairly narrow coastal strip under the wall, already starting from the third rope, climbers get the feeling that the route passes directly over the water. The route starts 50 m to the left of a huge slab leaning against the wall. The landmark is a tree growing on a small slab. R0–R1: 50 m. Climb up the inner corner to the slab, traverse left and up along a shelf to the base of the inner corner. Move up the inner corner-chimney under the eave. Climbing is difficult, organizing intermediate protection points is quite challenging, there are three intermediate pitons. Under the eave, move right, then through an overhanging wall via a crack to an inner corner. Move up the inner corner to a belay station on pitons.

  • 10 m III
  • 30 m VI A1
  • 10 m V A1 R1–R2: 30 m. Climb up a crack formed by the slab and the wall. Reach a ledge. Belay station on pitons. 30 m V+. R2–R3: 40 m. Climb up and right on a slab with small sharp holds to a piton, continue moving up the slab, following sparse pitons. The general direction is up and right towards a tree on a ledge. Climbing gradually becomes easier. Belay station on a ledge with two pitons.
0
0

A route through the southwest wall of Peak Komosomola in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, climbed in alpine style using a sport climbing approach.

0
0