Golden Horn
Peak1,945 m
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of the peaks Coya and Khabarovsk Alpinists, cat. 2A, 6-7 hours, ridge route with dense firn and piton belay.
Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:
- Insurance is simultaneous.
- Movement is in crampons.
- After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
- The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
- The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
- 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.
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