Route description to the summit of Peak Dementieva (4500 m), approximately 4A cat. diff. 7.5.713

Peak Dementieva (4500 m) is located in the northern spur of the Western Kokschaal-Too ridge (see map), which forms the right (orographic) bank of the Chong-Turasu river gorge.

Approaches

Leaving the base camp (see map) along the trail leading to the upper reaches of the Chong-Turasu river, we turn left at the third (along the way) stream flowing from the spur and flowing into the Chong-Turasu. Further ascent is along the talus (along the right orographic bank of the stream) under the rocky massif of the peak. The cemented talus resembles firm firn, requiring steps to be cut with the sole of the boot. At the beginning of the ridge on the talus, there is a possible spot for a tent, no water, but there is snow. The approach from the base camp to the stream takes 1 h, the ascent along the talus — 3–3.5 h.

Ascent

Bypassing the rocky walls on the right along the way, along the talus we reach the ridge (1 h), further the path goes along the ridge of medium difficulty, with protection through ledges, the rocks are quite heavily destroyed (2 h). The ridge turns into a sharp crest, which is overcome in a classical way, the length is 5–7 m. The crest leads to a wall (3–4 m) sheer with minimal holds, overhanging above the precipice. Protection is with pitons. After the wall, a ridge of medium difficulty (protection through ledges) leads to a 40-meter wall, dissected by a small crack. In front of the wall, there is a flat area where a tent can be pitched. Passing the wall — with piton protection without backpacks: