Report

On ascending to the summit of Delikli-Burun via the "Dvoika" route, category 2A, by the Mountain School "Kategoriya Trudnosti" team from October 28, 2023, to October 28, 2023.

I. Climbing Report Details

II. Climbing Description

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

The Delikli Burun summit is a small rock formation that transitions into the Illyas Kaya summit via a ridge.

2. Characteristics of the Route

The route bypasses the popular multipitch "Neznayka na Lune" and intersects with it at two sections: 50 m (transition across terrain of category I complexity, R4–R5) and 10–12 m (wall with bolts, R5–R6). The route is uniform, without pronounced key sections, featuring pleasant climbing on fairly monolithic terrain, and is not difficult for organizing natural protection. It is possible to practice the ascent with a bivouac (a good site for 1 tent on R4–R5).

The yellow line indicates the "Neznayka na Lune" multipitch, and the red line indicates the "Dvoika" alpine route.

The relevance of the route is due to:

1. Information from experienced climbers indicating that before the "Neznayka" multipitch was established, an alpine route existed along the ridge with natural protection, corresponding to category 2A. The multipitch was primarily drilled to the left of the previously existing alpine route, on smooth slabs with problematic natural protection and including sections up to category 6A. Both lines (the multipitch and the proposed alpine route for classification) do not contradict each other's existence.
2. The area has a pronounced shortage of category 2A training routes (there are quite a few category 2B routes), which creates queues during peak seasons.
3. The route line is logical, with straightforward navigation, fairly monolithic, without sections of "decay," and with unproblematic organization of natural protection.

Technical characteristics of the route sections

3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions

Approach: From the pocket at 44.413454, 33.725470 on the highway, follow the clear trail and signs to the via ferrata to the start of the via ferrata. Along the clear shelf with via ferrata handrails, go right for about 50 m to a small gully. To the right of the slab with bolted steps in the gully, the route starts. R0 can be done on the via ferrata handrails.

Required equipment: 50–60 m rope, a set of medium-sized friends (0.5–1 by Black Diamond), medium and large placements, 6 extension slings (absolutely necessary!). Driven pitons are not required; the terrain is rich for placements.

R0–R1 — 35 m, category III–IV, 2 small walls of 2–3 m up to 5B, обязательно удлинять точки.

First, go right for 10 m on simple slabs, then left to a fractured small wall between two junipers. Up the small wall (key section, 3 m up to 5B) with good protection — to the bolted station of the multipitch. On the multipitch station, it's possible to position the first rope team; for a group, it's recommended to set up a station on their own points 3 m higher — in a small depression (rich fractured terrain and enough space for several people).

R1–R2 35 m, category II–III. From the depression, continue moving up-left (at 10 o'clock) on несложным некрутым плитам with good protection on medium-sized friends and medium and large placements. Station under the wall on bolts, or left on a juniper (preferable, as there's less rope drag later).

R2–R3 20 m (undesirable to combine with the previous or next section, strong bends — rope will go hard), 5 m III, 15 m II. Left of the juniper, 3 m to a bolt; the next bolt on the small wall should be bypassed to the right and below (undesirable to clip into the bolt — strong friction; better to place own protection). On simple terrain to a station on bolts. The station is on a wide shelf on bolts next to a small juniper.

R3–R4 30 m, 10 m III, 20 m II. Bypass a small juniper on the left and move straight up the slabs with good protection in cracks and fissures.

R4–R5 50 m, category I. Along a horizontal grassy shelf to an arch (a good spot for overnight stay in calm weather), on simple terrain, bypass a rocky bastion on the right. Station on a bolt and own protection.

R5–R6 20 m, category IV. Move right to bypass the bastion to a wall with frequent bolts (10–12 m, 5B–5C); after the wall, left on a shelf to a station on bolts.

R6–R7 25 m, 20 m III, 5 m IV. From the station, left on a shelf (not straight up!), step over a gap, enter an internal corner, from the internal corner on a small wall, move with natural protection on small-sized friends and medium placements. Station on bolts behind a characteristic "bump".

R7–R8 50 m, 35 m I, 15 m III. From the station on simple terrain, on a horizontal ridge-bridge with bolts (there's a station on bolts in the middle), further on simple slabs to a station on a small wall. Station on bolts. Be cautious in strong winds — it can be blown away!

R8–R9 15 m, category II. From the station, 4 m right on a shelf, then on a system of simple internal corners left-up to the yayla.