Ascent Passport
Ascent class — combined.
Ascent area — Polar Urals.
Peak, its height and route — peak 1316 m (“Bastion”, vicinity of Graniozny pass), via 4th counterfort, northern slope.
Assumed category of difficulty 2B.
Route characteristics:
- elevation gain 600 m
- length of category difficulty sections: 2–600 m, 3–80 m
Average steepness: overall 60°.
Pitons driven for protection:
- rock pitons — 12
- chocks — 10

Including 2 used to create the initial belay. Number of moving hours from the foot — 3 h 30 min. From the base camp, the approach to the start of the route is 2 hours.

Full Names:

Maltsev Sergey Leonidovich — team leader, 2nd sports category
Evdokimov Alexander Liverievich — 2nd sports category
Team coach Fomenko Felix Nikolaevich — CMS, 1st category instructor-methodologist
Date November 7, 1991

First ascent November 7, 1991 by:

Maltsev Sergey Leonidovich — 2nd sports category
Evdokimov Alexander Liverievich — 2nd sports category

12 pitons driven, 10 chocks placed, route length — time taken 3 h 30 min.

Equipment

Main rope 40 m × 11 mm 1 pc. 1a. Main rope 40 m × 8 mm 1 pc.
Helmets 2 pcs.
Harness systems 2 pcs.
Rock pitons 10 pcs.
Chock set 10 pcs.
Crampons 2 pairs
Skis, ski poles 2 pairs
Ice axe 1 pc.
Rock hammer 1 pc.
First aid kit 1 pc.
Quickdraws 7 pcs.
Sling protection 5 pcs.

Route Description

Approach: From the base camp on skis towards Graniozny pass, approximately 2 h 30 min approach. We ascend to the lakes, pass the 1st lake and follow the moraine between the lakes to the south. After 300 m, the ascent to the summit begins. Route: The moraine on the counterfort ascends to the summit. R0 — 300 m — scree slope and easy rocks 30°. R1 — 300 m — 50°–60° ridge 2, easy rocks, convenient belay.

R2 — 40 m — 60°–70° — 3. R3 — 40 m — 70° — 3. The ridge alternates between rock walls with convenient ledges.

Explanatory Note. Rai-Iz area, Polar Urals

The Polar Urals is a very interesting area for beginner climbers and enthusiasts of mountains in the northern regions of the European part of the country. Ukhta climbers have accumulated years of experience in ascents in the Urals. One can reach this area by train Moscow–Labytnangi or Moscow–Vorkuta with a transfer at Seyda station, to Polar Urals or Sob (ski resort) station. From the 110 km platform (106 km on some maps), 16 km south along a tractor road (impassable for motor vehicles) lies an abandoned geologists' base (2 remaining cabins, no firewood). It is recommended to travel on trekking skis (1-day approach). This location is convenient for a base camp. The nearest route starts within 5 min from here. Besides the routes listed below, there are several more potential objects for training ascents. The area is interesting due to its diverse mountain relief. In a local area, one can organize training on various forms of mountain relief.

Besides this area, in the Polar Urals south of the Seyda–Labytnangi railway line, there are several interesting mountain areas:

Payyer massif — approach from Yeletskaya station, 50 km
Chernaya peak — approach from Harp station, 30 km
Skalnaya peak — approach from Sivaya Maska station, 50–60 km

List of literature used for route documentation:

route classifier for mountain peaks, 1989 edition
catalog of climbing routes — Khibiny, Shumilov O.I.
rules for making ascents in the mountains

Literature on this area:

“100 days in the Urals” by N.A. Rundqvist, Ural Aerogeodetic Enterprise, Ekaterinburg, 1993
cartographic material from the latest book, 1993
diagrams from the Ukhta tourist club and provided by the methodologist of the Republican Youth Tourist Station in Syktyvkar

Height marks on different maps do not coincide.

1173

Raiiz Massif

Despite the apparent remoteness, the Raiiz area is easily accessible. To the north of it, along the Sob valley, winds the Seyda–Labytnangi railway line. The complex orography of the massif, with its tangled mountain spurs, contributes to a milder climate than, for example, in the Payyer massif to the south. The Rai mountains are an excellent location.