Passport
- Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.57
Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.
- Name of the peak: 1159.0 (Dinozavr Glavny)
height: 1159.0 m. Route: along the central counterfort of the western rock massif of the northern wall of the western ridge.
- Category of difficulty: 2B
- Character of the route — rock climbing.
- Height difference of the route: 890 m
- Length of the route: 3000 m
- Length of sections with the highest category of difficulty:
1 cat. diff. — 2 sections — 250 m, 2 cat. diff. — 2 sections — 300 m, 3 cat. diff. — 3 sections — 250 m
4 cat. diff. — 0 sections — 0 m, 5 cat. diff. — 0 sections — 0 m, 6 cat. diff. — 0 m
- Average steepness: main part of the route — 65°.
entire route — 55°. 9. Number of pitons used: Total used on the route:
- rock pitons — 15,
- chocks — 72,
- stationary pitons — 0,
- ITO — 0,
- removable pitons — 0. Left on the route: total — 0; including stationary pitons — 0.
- Departure to the route — 6:00, July 1, 2006.
Reached the summit — 12:00, July 1, 2006. Returned to the base camp — 14:00, July 1, 2006
- Team's travel time: — 8 hours.
- Team leader: V. Toropov (1st sports category, Syktyvkar).
Team members: P. Bondaruk (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar), Yu. Valuzhis (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar), O. Ermolin (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar).
- Coach: Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilyevich, title — CMS, instructor-methodologist 1st category.
Description of the peak
Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) — one of the peaks of the Raiiz mountain massif, located in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug (YaNAO) of the Tyumen Oblast, Ural Federal District of the Russian Federation, on the eastern slopes of the Polar Urals, on the northwest of the Raiiz mountain massif, in the Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.
Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) is a prominent mountain of the Raiiz massif, easily identifiable, visible from the Yeletskaya station, Polar Urals, and the 110 km halt.
The name is unofficial but has become established in the tourist and mountaineering community.
Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) is the most popular object for training ascents in the Polar Urals. Many routes have been laid to the peak, ranging from 1B to 4A category of difficulty.
Description of the route
The route "Along the central counterfort of the western rock massif of the northern wall of the western ridge (rocky)" — a characteristic training route of 2B category of difficulty, with a full range of natural obstacles corresponding to routes of this level. Climbing this route has not only aesthetic but also practical training value, as it allows climbers to practice belaying and self-belaying techniques on rocky terrain during the ascent.
Equipment
For an ascent as part of a training group of 6 people (5 participants + instructor), the following special equipment is required on the route:
Personal:
- Standard issue
- Crampons — only in winter and during the off-season
- Ice axe — only in winter and during the off-season
Group:
- Main rope 10 mm — 3 × 50 m
- Rock hammer — 2 pcs.
- Rock pitons — 16 pcs.
- Ice axe — 1 pc.
- Chocks — 12 pcs.
- Ice screws — 0 pcs.
- Quickdraws — 10 pcs.
- Slings — 10 pcs.
Approach
The ascent starts from the "Delta Nyrdvomen-Shora" campsite.
Initially:
- Cross the Nyrdvomen-Shor stream to the left bank by fording.
- Then ascend through the scree and mountain tundra slope to the base of the western rock massif (the rightmost one as you go) of the northern wall of the western ridge.
- Then approach the start of the route — a large boulder under the central counterfort.
At the boulder — a control point marking the start of the route. There's a convenient area for organizing rope teams.
Technical part
The route begins with the passage of a dissected slab. Subjective rockfall hazard — small and medium-sized stones lie on the ledges.
Next — exit under the inclined wall — "Kaskadnaya". This is a long inclined wall with uniform climbing of medium difficulty. There are many convenient places for organizing intermediate anchors and base stations.
From the "Kaskadnaya" wall — exit under the ridge wall — a rock wall of medium difficulty, requiring the first climber to have the ability to navigate the rock macro-relief.
The crux of the route: the internal corner "Gladkiy". Technically difficult climbing on monolithic rocks.
After passing the crux — exit to the summit of the western rock massif's rock tower along a jagged rock ridge. Descent to the western ridge is done simultaneously, on a shortened rope, along a series of rock ledges.
Then:
- traverse along the western ridge,
- ascent to the scree dome of the summit, which does not present technical difficulties (1B category route along the western ridge).
The summit is marked with a triangulation marker.
Descent from the summit.
Descent from the summit is done:
- along the western ridge and western couloir (1B category route)
- along the southeast descent couloir (non-categorized)
Polar Urals. Raiiz mountain massif. Peak — 1159 m (Dinozavr Glavny).
Polar Urals. Raiiz mountain massif. Peak — 1159 m (Dinozavr Glavny).
Route: "Along the central counterfort of the western rock massif of the northern wall of the western ridge" 2B category (rocky).
Section R1–R2. Passage of the slab.
Length: 25 m. Steepness: 45°. Level: Polar Urals. Mountain massif: Raiiz. Peak: 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route: "Along the central counterfort of the western rock massif of the northern wall of the western ridge". 2B category (rocky).
Section R2–R3. Photo-profile of the "Kaskadnaya" wall. Length — 250 m. Steepness — 55–60°. Difficulty level — 2+, 3− category.
R0 — Delta Nyrdvomen-Shora campsite
Polar Urals. Raiiz mountain massif. Peak 1159.0 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route:
- Along the central counterfort
- of the western rock massif
