Ascent Logbook

Central China, Sichuan Province, Siguniang Gully, classified as "11.3. China"
Peak name: Siguniang(3) (6027 m), route name: via the left part of the south face
Proposed - 6A category, first ascent
Route type: combined
Route elevation gain: 1407 m (by altimeter); including wall section: 1300 m. Route length: 1615 m. Length of sections: 5th category - 385 m, 6th category - 170 m. Average steepness: Main part of the route - 63°, entire route - 61°
Pitons left on the route: total: 0 pcs., including bolted: 0 pcs. Pitons used on the route: Stationary bolted: 0 pcs., including ATO: 0 pcs. Removable bolted: 0 pcs., including ATO: 0 pcs. Total artificial support points (ATO) used: Pitons - 8 pcs., chocks - 5 pcs.
Team's total climbing hours: 49 hours, 7 days
Team leader: Igor N. Shapovalenko, Candidate Master of Sports Team members: Alexander V. Krasnolutsky, 1st class Randy Shantz, Canada
Coach: I.N. Shapovalenko
Departure for the route: 9:00, October 22, 2001 (with preliminary processing and a day of waiting due to bad weather) Summit reached: 15:00, October 25, 2001 Return to base camp: 19:00, October 26, 2001

Panoramic Photo of the Area with a General View of the Peak

Photo taken in July 1994

Blue - 1982 Japanese route
Red - 1990 Japanese route
Green - 2001 PFAiS route

Photo of the Wall Profile

Hand-drawn profile of the route M 1:5000

Peak 6027 m
R51
R43 - Camp 3-4 (5762 m, 53°)
R33 - Camp 2 (5484 m, 75°)
R21 (5201 m, 67°)
R18 - Camp 1 (5023 m, 41°)
R0 (4620 m, 68°, 61°)

Overview of the Climbing Area

The mountain range where Siguniang peak is located is situated in the central part of Sichuan Province, People's Republic of China. Rilong town is the last point accessible by vehicle. From there, it takes 3-4 hours by a good trail to reach a large clearing opposite the western ridge of Siguniang peak, where the base camp is set up (3400 m). From the base camp, follow the valley upwards on a clear trail to the first moraine ridge, where there are cleared areas for tents and an upper base camp can be established (4525 m). To approach the route, cross the scree with a slight ascent towards a well-defined 400-meter gully. At its beginning, there's a cleared and safe spot for a tent (4620 m). The mountains in this area are primarily composed of fragile sedimentary rocks, particularly metamorphosed schist. However, the rocks forming Siguniang peak are robust, large-block granites that have intruded through the sedimentary rocks due to geological transformations. In October, the area is characterized by unstable weather. Periods of 2-3 days suitable for climbing are followed by bad weather with rain and snow, though not necessarily low temperatures. By the end of the month, snow can fall even in the lower base camp. From Rilong, a trekking trail leads through the valley and over two passes around Siguniang peak, with up to 700 people per day during peak season.

Shenshan (Celestial Peak) 5413 m
Siguniangshan (Mt. Siguniang) 6250 m
Sanguniang 5664 m
Erguniang 5454 m
Daguniang 5355 m
Rilong
Balangshan (Mt. Balang) 4487 m

Ascent Graph

Peak 6027 m
Ascent 6 hours
Descent 3 hours
Descent via the ascent route
Camp 3-4 (5762 m)
Camp 2 (5484 m)
Camp 1 (5023 m)
Processing (4781 m)
Bad weather (4620 m)

October 20	October 21	October 22	October 23	October 24	October 25	October 26
4 hours		8 hours	9 hours	9 hours	9 hours	10 hours
Clear	Clear	Variable	Variable	Variable	Variable	Variable
Wind	Wind	cloudiness	cloudiness	cloudiness	cloudiness	cloudiness
T=+10°C	T=+2-5°C	Wind	Snow	Strong
		T=0-5°C	Wind	wind
			T=-2-7°C	T=-5-0°C