Passport

Rock climbing category.
Sierra Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).
Half Dome summit, combination of Regular Northwest Face and North Ridge routes.
Proposed category of complexity 6A cat. sl.
Height difference — 550 m, route length — 732 m. Length of 5–6 grade sections — 732 m, out of which 6 grade — 216 m, average steepness of the route — 81°.
Means of protection and artificial climbing aids used (in the denominator):

Rock pitons	Nuts	Bolts for artificial climbing aids	Sky-hook usage
35/34	235/195	5*/5	14

Team's climbing hours — 27 h. Days on the route — 3.
Overnights: 1 — on a platform. 1 — lying on a shelf.
Participants: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich Master of Sports Oleinikov Yuri Vladimirovich Master of Sports
Coach: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich Master of Sports
Departure to the route: September 10, 2000 (12:00), summit: September 12, 2000 (12:30), return to base camp: September 12, 2000 (16:30).
Organization: Alpinism Club of Magnitogorsk.

Participants: Igolkin V.I., Oleinikov Yu.V. Address: 455000, Magnitogorsk, Lenin Ave. 37–23, phone (3511) 21-10-24 home, 32-71-86 (Igolkin V.I.)

Half Dome. Northeast wall. The photo was taken with a Japanese camera on September 16, 2000 at 13:00. Distance to the wall is about 2000 m.

Route Regular Northwest Face + North Ridge — training, climbed by team No.1 on September 12, 2000.
Queen of Spades — climbed by team No.2 on October 7, 2000.

Passport

Category: rock climbing
USA, California state, Sierra Nevada mountains. Yosemite area.
Summit: Half Dome.
Route: Queen of Spades. 6B category of complexity.
Height difference — 720 m. Route length — 810 m. Average wall steepness 85°.
Pitons driven:

Rock	Nuts	Bolts	Sky-hook
45	136	35	7

Note: 2–3 stationary bolted hooks on belay stations are not counted.

7. Climbing hours: 57 h; Days: 4.5 8. Overnights: 1–4 — lying on a platform. 9. Participants: Soldatov Sergey Yurievich Master of Sports Zaitov Renat Nurovich Master of Sports 10. Coach: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich Master of Sports 11. Departure to the route: September 19, 2000 7:30; Return: September 23, 2000 18:00 (to base camp). 12. Organization: Alpinism Club of Magnitogorsk city.

The ascent was made within the framework of the 18th Open Championship of Russia in Alpinism (Super League)

2000 Magnitogorsk

19.09 — dates of overnight stays (from 19.09 to 20.09)

Half Dome, Northwest Face

Final Exam 5.10d
North Ridge 5.10d
Regular Northwest Face Route 5.9 A2 or 5.12 to North Ridge on September 12, 2000.
Direct Northwest Face Route 5.13c/d
Queen of Spades on September 23, 2000.

Route climbed by Oleinikov–Igolkin team
Route climbed by Soldatov–Zaitov team

TENAYA CANYON

North Dome Half Dome. Northeast wall. The photo was taken with a Japanese camera on September 19, 2000 at 13:00. Distance to the wall is about 200 m.

1 — Route Regular Northwest Face + North Ridge training, climbed by team No.1 on September 12, 2000. 2 — Queen of Spades climbed by team No.2 on October 7, 2000.

Turned back on September 11, 2000 20:00 September 12 6:30 September 11 18:00

Rock pitons	Nuts	Bolts	Sky-hooks	Sections	Difficulty	Length	Steepness
3	16	-	-	R11–R12	V+ A1	40	80
2	17	-	2	R10–R11	VI- A1	45	90
1	18	-	-	R9–R10	V+ A1	40	80
3	14	-	-	R8–R9	V+	45	75
2	14	-	-	R7–R8	V+ A1	45	80
1	15	-	-	R6–R7	V+ A1	43	85
4	16	-	4	R5–R6	VI- A1	48	90
3	12	1	3	R4–R5	VI- A1	33	90
3	14	3	3	R3–R4	VI- A1	37	90
4	11	-	-	R2–R3	V+ A1	35	85
2	12	-	-	R1–R2	V+ A1	33	85
4	19	1	2	R0–R1	VI- A1	53	90

September 10, 2000 12:00

Half Dome

Combination of "Regular Northwest Face" (R0–R7) and North Ridge routes

September 12 12:30

Rock pitons	Nuts	Bolts	Sky-hooks	Sections	Difficulty	Length	Steepness
-	7	-	-	R17–R18	V+	45	60
-	10	-	-	R16–R17	V+	45	70
2	12	-	-	R15–R16	V+	45	80
-	15	-	-	R14–R15	V+	50	75
1	10	-	-	R13–R14	V+	50	75

Half Dome. Route: Queen of Spades

September 23 11:45

Rock pitons	Nuts	Bolts	Sky-hooks	UIAA route symbols	Sections	Difficulty	Length	Steepness
3	7	3	2		R17–R18	A5+	45	95
4	5	-	-		R16–R17	V+ A2	45	80

September 23 6:30 September 22 20:00

Rock pitons	Nuts	Bolts	Sky-hooks	Sections	Difficulty	Length	Steepness
1	8	-	-	R15–R16	V+ A3	30	90
2	8	3	-	R14–R15	V+ A4	50	85
2	4	3	1	R13–R14	V+ A4	35	90
1	9	4	-	R12–R13	V+ A4	50	85

September 22 6:30 September 21 19:30

Rock pitons	Nuts	Bolts	Sky-hooks	UIAA route symbols	Sections	Difficulty	Length	Steepness
3	5	3	-		R11–R12	V+ A4	45	85
4	6	-	-		R10–R11	V+ A4	45	85

September 21 6:30 September 20 20:00

Rock pitons	Nuts	Bolts	Sky-hooks	Sections	Difficulty	Length	Steepness
8	2	-	-	R9–R10	V+ A4	40	85
6	5	1	-	R8–R9	V+ A4	35	90
4	6	-	-	R7–R8	V+ A4	45	80
5	5	2	-	R6–R7	V+ A4	50	85
2	6	2	-	R5–R6	V+ A4	40	85
7	6	1	-	R4–R5	V+ A4	45	85
1	14	-	-	R3–R4	V+ A4	50	85
2	12	7	2	R2–R3	V+ A4	45	85
3	10	-	-	R1–R2	V+ A1	50	80
2	11	-	-	R0–R1	V+ A1	50	85

September 20 7:00 September 19 19:30 September 19 7:30

Routes by Overall Difficulty

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