REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF AIGUILLE DU TOUR SOUTHERN SUMMIT VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE (VIA THE TABLE) CATEGORY 3A BY THE POLYTECHNIC ALPINISM CLUB TRAINING SECTION UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF MOLODOZHEN V.A. ON JULY 27, 2018

1. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderMolodozhen V. A. – Master of Sports
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsFineeva A. A. – 3rd sports rank
Sadovskiy S. V. – 3rd sports rank
Duplyak A. K. – 3rd sports rank
Lymanyuk A. Yu. – 3rd sports rank
1.3Full Name of coachMolodozhen V. A.
1.4OrganizationPolytechnic Alpinism Club
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
2.1RegionFrance, Haute-Savoie, Chamonix valley, Le Tour, Glacier du Tour
2.2ValleyLe Tour
2.3Classification table section (2013)10.3
2.4Name and height of the summitAiguille du Tour (southern summit) – 3542 m
2.5Geographical coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinatesAiguille du Tour (southern summit) – 45°59′39.8″ N 7°00′37.3″ E
3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1Name of the routeAscent to the southern summit via the southwest ridge (via the Table)
3.2Proposed category of difficulty3A
3.3Degree of route explorationWell-trodden
3.4Relief characteristics of the routeRocky
3.5Height difference of the route (altimeter or GPS data)Altitude of campsite – 2702 m;
Altitude at the start of the route – 3250 m;
Summit altitude – 3542 m;
Height difference from campsite to summit – 842 m;
Height difference from the base of the rocky ascent to the summit – 292 m.
3.6Route length (in meters)Distance from campsite to the base of the rocky ascent (approach distance) – 2550 m;
Distance from the start of the route to the summit – 410 m;
Descriptive route length
3.7Technical elements of the route (total length of sections with varying difficulty)2, snow, firn – 50 m;
2, rocks – 120 m;
3, rocks – 320 m;
4, rocks – 35 m;
indicating the nature of the relief (ice-snow, rocky))Rappelling on the route – 5 m;
Movement on a closed glacier 3900 m.
3.8Descent from the summitDescent from the summit via the eastern slope of Aiguille du Tour following the 1B category route
3.9Additional route characteristics-
4. Characteristics of team actions
4.1Time of movement (team's walking hours, in hours and days)11 hours
4.2Overnight staysCampsite
4.3Departure from overnight stays3:30 July 27, 2018
4.4Start of the route6:00 July 27, 2018
4.5Arrival at the Table8:30 July 27, 2018
4.6Arrival at the summit11:30 July 27, 2018
4.7Descent from the route12:00 July 27, 2018
4.8Return to overnight stays13:50 July 27, 2018
5. Responsible for the report
5.1Sadovskiy Sergey Valerievichsadovsergey@hotmail.com

2. Climbing Description

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

1.1. General photo of the summit

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Date of photography — April 14, 2014. Source — http://m.skitour.fr/sorties/sortie.php?id=58313

Location of photography — Glacier du Tour, France, view of the southern slope of Aiguille du Tour southern summit.

Routes:

  1. Route via the southwest ridge (via the Table) to the southern summit of Aiguille du Tour — 3A category;
  2. Route via Couloir de la Table to the southern summit of Aiguille du Tour — 3A category;

1.2. Photo of the route profile

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Date of photography — April 14, 2014. Source — http://m.skitour.fr/sorties/sortie.php?id=58313 Location of photography — Glacier du Tour, France, view of the southern slope of Aiguille du Tour southern summit.

1.3. Photopanorama of the area

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Date of photography — April 14, 2014. Source — http://m.skitour.fr/sorties/sortie.php?id=58313 Location of photography — Glacier du Tour, France, view of the southern slope of Aiguille du Tour southern summit.

1.4. Map of the area

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The area where the summit is located is on the border between France and Switzerland. Glacier du Tour is located east of Le Tour, which is in the Chamonix valley, north of Chamonix.

The ascent to the campsite from Le Tour is possible via a trail. The height difference is 1270 m, distance 6.5 km. The journey takes about 3 hours.

The approach to the campsite is also possible from the upper station of the Les Autannes lift. In this case, the height difference is 550 m, distance 4 km. The journey takes about 2 hours.

From the campsite, one must move east along the northern side of the glacier on a trail. The path is marked on the map with a red dotted line. Then, one must cross to the closed glacier. In summer, this route is quite popular, so a trail is clearly visible on the glacier. One must follow the trail southeast. Rounding the southeastern slope of Aiguille du Tour, one must turn northeast and head towards Couloir de la Table. One must stay on the left side of it.

The start of the route is at the bottom of the couloir, where it becomes steeper.

The descent from the route is via the eastern slope of Aiguille du Tour towards Glacier Trient in Switzerland. After descending from the route, one must head south towards Col Superieur du Tour. The altitude of the pass is 3288 m. The height difference relative to the campsite is 586 m, distance – 2.85 km.

2. Characteristics of the Route

Section №Relief characteristicsCategory of difficultyLengthType and number of pitons
R0–R1Snow, firn250 m-
R1–R2Rocks415 m3 chocks
R2–R3Rocks3120 m7 chocks
R3–R4Rocks410 m2 chocks
R4–R5Rocks410 m3 chocks
R5–R6Rocks350 m5 chocks
R6–R7Rocks-5 m-
R7–R8Rocks3150 m8 chocks
R8–R9Rocks2120 m-

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R0–R1 – section from the start of the couloir to the bergschrund. The steepness of the snow-firn ascent is about 30 degrees.

R1–R2 – short section of difficult climbing. This section can be bypassed to the right.

R2–R3 – section of relatively easy climbing. The first half of the section involves moving from R2 to the base of the golden-colored tower, then exiting to the ridge and moving along the ridge to the base of the Table (a large, detached rock resting on a "leg" on another rock).

R3–R4 – the Table.

R4–R5 – vertical wall behind the Table.

R5–R6 – ridge.

R6–R7 – short rappel.

R7–R8 – pre-summit ridge.

R8–R9 – descent from the summit via the eastern slope of Aiguille du Tour following the 1B category route. img-5.jpeg

3. Characteristics of Team Actions

| Section № | Description | Photo № | | :-------- | 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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | R7–R8 — Pre-summit ridge | №№8, 9 | | R8–R9 — Descent from the route | Movement along the pre-summit ridge. Simultaneous movement using relief features and chocks for belaying. Photo №8 — view of the pre-summit ridge from the Table. Photo №9 — participant on the summit. | - | | | Descent from the route via the eastern slope. Simultaneous movement using relief features for belaying. | |

The route is one of the most popular and beautiful for climbing. The route is not prone to rockfall, as it mainly follows the ridge. The proposed assessment of the route is 3A.

Photographs

Photograph №1

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Participants at point R1.

Photograph №2

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Section R2–R3. Approach to the Table from below.

Photograph №3

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Ascent to the Table. Section R3–R4.

Photograph №4

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On the Table. Section R3–R4.

Photograph №5

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View of the Table (R3–R4) and section R5–R6.

Photograph №6

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Section R4–R5.

Photograph №7

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View of section R5–R6.

Photograph №8

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View of section R7–R8.

Photograph №9

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Participant on the summit.

Sources

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