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Alpine Federation of Russia

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. Five Fingers (Funffingerspitzen, 2996 m) in the Dolomites (Italy) — traverse of the massif from East to West, category 3B, approximately on August 16, 2010.

Leader: Smirnov V.V. Participants: Penyaev I.N. Mikhaylova I.V. Team Coach: Smirnov V.V.

St. Petersburg 2010

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Area: Dolomites (Italy), Val di Fassa, Sassolungo Massif, section 10.3. 2. Summit Name: Five Fingers (Funffingerspitzen, 2996 m) Route Name: traverse of the massif from East to West 3. Route Category: 3B, approximate 4. Route Type: rock 5. Route Elevation Gain: 210 m Route Length: 930 m Section Lengths:

  • I–II category: 285 m
  • III category: 320 m
  • IV category: 180 m Average Steepness: 49 ° 6. Number of Pits and Protection Used: 38 7 Team's Moving Time: 7 h 8. Leader: Smirnov Viktor Valerievich, Master of Sports Participants:
  • Penyaev Ilya Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category
  • Mikhaylova Irina Vasilievna, 3rd sports category 9. Coach: Smirnov Viktor Valerievich 10. Route Start: at 8:00 on August 16, 2010 Summit Arrival: at 15:00 on August 16, 2010 Return to Base Camp: at 18:30 on August 16, 2010

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Fig. 1. General photo of the summit

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Fig. 2. Photopanorama of the area

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Fig. 3. Area map

Route Description by Sections

Section #Length, mSteepness, °Terrain TypeCategory# of Pits
R0–R120 m70 °RockIV3
R1–R240 m25 °RockI-
R2–R330 m70 °RockIII2
R3–R430 m80 °RockIII+2
R4–R530 m10 °RockII-
R5–R625 m75 °RockIV3
R6–R725 m80 °RockIV–3
R7–R830 m65 °RockIV–4
R8–R935 m85 °RockIV+5
R9–R1030 m60 °RockIII1
R10–R1140 m20 °RockII-
R11–R1240 mRockRappelling
R12–R1345 m80 °RockIII2
R13–R1445 m85 °RockIV4
R14–R1545 m60 °RockIII3
R15–R1625 m70 °RockIII2
R16–R1715 m50 °RockIII-
R17–R1880 m15 °RockII-
R18–R1925 mRockRappelling-
R19–R2050 m20 °RockIII2
R20–R2115 mRockRappelling-
R21–R2215 m10 °RockII2
R22–R2315 mRockRappelling-
R23–R2480 m20 °RockII-
R24–R2550 m45 °RockIII-
R2550 mRockRappelling-

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Fig. 4. UIAA Route Diagram

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Fig. 5. Technical photo of the route

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Fig. 6. Passage of section R6. Smirnov V. leads

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Fig. 7. Beginning of section R12. Penyaev I. belays

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Fig. 8. Upper part of section R13

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Fig. 9. Section R15

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Fig. 10. On the summit

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Fig. 11. Descent on section R20

Fig. 12. Rappelling on section R25

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