Passport
- Class of ascents — first ascent.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy glacier area.
- V. B. Luzhetskiy 3rd snow and ice climb.
- Proposed 3A category of difficulty first ascent.
- Height 3600 m, elevation gain 500 m, length 850 m.
- Pitons 5 pieces.
- Climbing hours 10.
- In a team of two: Barnov Sergey Ivanovich 1st sports category Mokhova Valentina Ivanovna 1st sports category
- Coach: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich 1st category No. 68.
- Date of ascent: August 11, 1998.
- Organization: Altai Krai Alpine Federation.
8.6.19264K020
| Section | Length | Steepness | Cat. diff. |
|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 500 m | 20° | 1 |
| R1–R2 | 45 m | 50° | 2+ |
| R2–R3 | 50 m | 60° | 3 |
| R3–R4 | 40 m | 15° | 2 |
| R4–R5 | 30 m | 70° | 3 |
| R5–R6 | 30 m | 30° | 1 |
| R6–R7 | 30 m | 45° | 2+ |
| R7–R8 | 80 m | 20° | 2 |
| R8–R9 | 60 m | 30° | 1 |
| R9–R10 | 80 m | 50–60° | 2+ |
V. B. Luzhetskiy 3rd snow and ice climb. Approach description
From the base camp located at the confluence of the Turaoyuk river and the Akkol river, move along the Akkol river along a weakly trodden path:
- initially along the swampy slope,
- then along the scree, leading to the lake under the Sofiyskiy glacier.
There are small clear lakes on the shore. A convenient place for a bivouac. Approach time 2–2.5 hours.
Route description
From the bivouac, move along the Akkol river to the tongue of the Sofiyskiy glacier. Ascend to the glacier and go left along the way to the confluence of the right (orographically) branch. Cross to this branch along the moraines and approach v. B. Luzhetskiy.
Travel time: 3–3.5 hours.
Along the lateral moraine, then along the scree, approach the 3rd snow and ice climb from the left side. Two internal corners located one after the other lead to the edge of the counterfort. The length of this section is 90 m. Movement is alternating with the organization of piton belay.
Further movement goes along the edge of the counterfort. Ridge sections lead to walls or steep slabs, the passage of which requires piton belay or belay through a ledge. The last wall before the summit is 80 m, with a steepness of 50–65°, and is traversed alternately with piton belay. Time to pass the counterfort is 4–5 hours.
Descent along the ascent route or along the north ridge. In case of descent along the north ridge, it is necessary to have ice screws in reserve. In any case, you should have:
- slings for rappelling.
Descent time to bivouac is 4 hours.