Passport

  1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Maashey valley. 1.2
  2. V. Nizhne-Shavlinskaya via the eastern ridge. Height 3200.
  3. Proposed 1B category of complexity first ascent.
  4. The nature of the route is combined.
  5. Height difference 350 m. Route length 1180 m. Average slope of the route 21°. Slope of the key section 70°.
  6. Ice pitons – 2.
  7. Travel time 5 hours (from the foot to the summit).
  8. Leader: A. Drakin, Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: N. Astafurova, 3rd sports category; V. Penzev, 2nd sports category.
  9. Coach: A. Drakin, 1st category No. 68.
  10. Departure for the route August 4, 2002, 5:00 a.m. Summit reached August 4, 2002, 12:00 p.m. Return to bivouac August 4, 2002, 3:00 p.m.
  11. Organization: Siberian Regional Center for Civil Defense and Emergency Situations and Life and Property Safety.

Technical photograph. Shooting point No. 1

img-1.jpeg

General view photograph of the summit. Shooting point No. 2 img-2.jpeg

img-3.jpeg

Brief description of the route. From the bivouac located on the green meadow below Obzornaya peak, move along the moraine ridge in the direction of Nizhny Shavlinsky pass. Before reaching the tongue of the glacier, ascend the talus slope of Obzornaya peak, bypassing it in the direction between Nizhne-Shavlinskaya and Obzornaya peaks. From the saddle, move along the talus eastern ridge. Movement is simultaneous.

The last gendarme before the ice cap is simple broken rock. Technically challenging is the ascent to the ice cap:

  • A 10-meter ice wall with a slope of 70° is climbed with piton protection.
  • Belays are organized.

On the ice cap, approach the snowy ridge that leads to the summit. The ridge is sharp, with steep drops on both sides. Movement is alternating, belay through an ice axe. Descent is via the ascent route. The route is objectively safe. The following rules should be observed:

  • talus slopes
  • ice slopes
  • snowy ridges

All group members should have:

  • crampons
  • 5–6 ice screws per group.

Attached files

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment