Passport
- Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge. 1.2
- Geroev Altaya peak via the northwestern slope of the eastern ridge. Height 3511 m (measured using GPS).
- Category 2B, second ascent proposed. (First ascent made on August 22, 2000 by Barnov S.I. with Komissarov D.A.)
- The nature of the route is snow-ice.
- Elevation gain 480 m, length 1050 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 35–40°, entire route 30–35°.
- Ice screws used on the route — 22.
- Climbing hours 5 h 30 min from the glacier to the summit.
- Leader: Markin N.L. — 1st sports category.
Team members:
- Komissarov D.A. — 2nd sports category
- Neyaskina O.V. — 3rd sports category
- Prisyazhnykh V.V. — 3rd sports category
- Khomyakov V.A. — 3rd sports category
- Coach: Drakin A.V. — 1st category, No. 68.
- Departure from bivouac 5:00 August 30, 2002. Departure on the route 8:30 August 30, 2002. Reach the summit 14:30 August 30, 2002. Return to bivouac 18:00 August 30, 2002.
- Organization: Siberian Regional Center for Civil Defense and Emergency Situations and Life and Property Safety Bureau.
Technical photograph. Shooting point No. 1.
Shavlinksy Verkhniy pass.
Route diagram
Geroev Altaya peak:
- R6: 250 m, 15–20°, category 2
- R5: 250 m, 15–20°, category 2
- R4: 280 m, 30–35°, category 2
- R3: 120 m, 35–40°, category 2
- R2: 100 m, 35–40°, category 2
- R1: 150 m, 30°, category 2
- R0: 150 m, 20°, category 2
Brief description of the route
From the bivouac located on the stream flowing from the cirque of Okhotnik and Suvorov peaks, move to the glacier along the Karakabak river. Approach the northwestern slope of the eastern ridge of Geroev Altaya peak via the simple gentle tongue of the glacier. The entire ascent follows an ice slope. In the middle part, the steepness reaches 40°. The slope is 1050 m long. Movement is alternating, with protection via ice screws. Ropes are set up on sections R2–R4. Descent is made via the ascent route.
Safety recommendations
In the lower part of the route, avoid being under the rocky slopes of Spasatel peak. Spontaneous rockfall is possible.
Equipment recommendations
The team should have a set of equipment for long ice routes of moderate steepness.
Comparative characteristics of the category complexity
The route is similar to the classified route to Spasatel peak via the N-3 slope "Through the pillow", category 2B. The nature of the route, length, and steepness are very similar, hence the proposed category 2B.
