6169

Passport

1. Category — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. To the peak of Barnaul climbers via the northern slope.
4. Proposed category: 4B (first ascent).
5. Height 3450 m, elevation gain 570 m, length 800 m, average slope 48°.
6. 37 ice screws used.
7. Climbing time 14 hours (from camp to camp).
8. Overnight stay — not required.
9. Leader: Drakin A. V., Candidate Master of Sports.

Team members:

• Markin N. L., 1st sports category
• Okhtemenko I. N., 1st sports category

10. Coach: Drakin A. V., 1st category, No. 68.
11. Date of ascent: August 21, 1999.
12. Organized by: Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism. www.alpfederation.ru

View of the peak of Barnaul climbers

Shooting point #2, camera: "Smena 8M", lens: "Lomo T43 4/40".

Route description to the peak of Barnaul climbers via the northern slope

Route scheme to the peak of Barnaul climbers

By sections:

• R0–R1: 200 m, 25–35°, difficulty category 3.
• R1–R2: 400 m, 35–55°, difficulty category 4.
• R2–R3: 120 m, 35–45°, difficulty category 4.
• R3–R4: 80 m, 35–25°, difficulty category 3.

Detailed description

From the forward camp, located above the second lake, move upstream along the river, bypassing the third and fourth lakes, to the moraine rampart blocking the Karakabak river valley. Climb onto the rampart and continue along the river to reach the glacier tongue. Enter the glacier and proceed along it to the northern slope of the peak of Barnaul climbers. Approach time: 3–3.5 hours.

The northern slope of the peak of Barnaul climbers is icy from the base to the summit. The length is 720 m, with an average slope of 40–45°. Throughout the ascent (18 ropes), the movement is alternating with protection via ice screws.

• The lower 200 m: slope steepness is 35–45°.
• The next 320 m: steepness increases to 50°.
• Then follows an ice ridge between rocky outcrops, 120 m, with a steepness of 30–35°.
• The subsequent 80-meter ice slope leads to the summit.

Descent is via the ascent route. (The group should have equipment necessary for a prolonged descent along the icy slope).