"Artur", from Titov Pass
Passport
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Rock climbing category.
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Altai, Katunsky ridge.
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Peak "Artur", from Titov Pass.
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Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
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Elevation gain: 140 m, length — 180 m.
Average steepness of the main part of the route — 50°.
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Pitons left on the route (not hammered out) — 3 pcs.
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Team's travel time: 2 hours
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Leader: Nemtsev Sergey Yuryevich — 1st sports category;
Participants:
- Plotnikov Valery Grigoryevich — Master of Sports;
- Zyatkov Nikolay Alekseyevich — 1st sports category.
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Coach: Shevchenko Nikolay Alekseyevich — Honored Coach of the RSFSR.
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Route approach: August 29, 1991
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Organization — Gorno-Altaisk KSS.
Route map
Ascent Route Diagram
Description of the route to peak "Artur" (3360) from Titov Pass, 3B category.
R0. From Titov Pass, traverse right under the wall of the "bastion" of peak Artur — 10 m. R1. Start of the route — ascent via ledges 3+, 70° — 10 m, then a small ledge where it's advisable to set up a stance, as the next section is challenging for 45–50 m.
Then via small walls 3+–4- we approach the "crux" — a 7 m crack, 90° — 4+–5-. AITC (medium cams and "friends" with slings). Exit under a cornice, which is bypassed on the right via slabs 4, with a steepness of 75°–80°, 15 m. Exit into an inclined internal corner — a "trough", where an inconvenient stance is set up. R2. Via the internal corner, exit to the western side of the "bastion", into the second chimney. Up and into the chimney — exit onto a ledge, from which via an inclined smooth ledge — a "katukh", 50°, we reach the top of the "bastion". R3. From the top of the bastion — a 4 m wall, 80°. Then via an inclined slab traverse — exit onto the ridge. R4. Ridge to the summit — 60 m, rock climbing category 2.
Descent via the ascent route — to the "bastion", then into the chimney, which "looks" directly at Titov Pass. In the chimney — a plug, above which a stance is belayed. From it to the start of the route — 60 m rappel.