REPORT

On the ascent of the peak Zholtaia Stena via the route 5A cat. by the team Vasily Terekhin – Oleg Khvostenko (Krasnoyarsk Krai)

July 20, 2019

Krasnoyarsk 2020

ASCENT DOCUMENT

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Terekhin Vasily Andreevich, MS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Khvostenko Oleg Valerievich, MS
1.3	Full name of the coach	Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, Honored Coach — Balezin Valery Viktorovich
1.4	Organization	Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1	Region	Gissar-Alay
2.2	Valley	Karavshin
2.3	Number of the section according to the 2013 classification table	5.4.3
2.4	Name and height of the peak	Zholtaia Stena, 3800 m
	3. Characteristics of the route
3.1	Name of the route	Via the right part of E wall
3.2	Category of difficulty	5A
3.3	Degree of route exploration	-
3.4	Nature of the route terrain	Rock
3.5	Height difference of the route	500 m
3.6	Length of the route	830 m
3.7	Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of various difficulty categories is indicated, with indication of the nature of the terrain (ice-snow, rock))	2–3 cat. rock — 300 m. 4 cat. rock — 5 cat. rock — 140 m. 6 cat. rock — 390 m. Free climbing level up to 7b on the French scale
3.8	Average steepness of the route, (°)	60°
3.9	Average steepness of the main part of the route, (°)	72°
3.10	Descent from the summit	To the west
3.11	Additional characteristics of the route	The upper part coincides with the Solonnikov route, 4B
	4. Characteristics of the team's actions
4.1	Time of movement	9 h 30 min
4.2	Overnights	-
4.3	Time of route preparation	-
4.4	Departure on the route	8:40 AM July 20, 2019
4.5	Arrival at the summit	6:10 PM July 20, 2019
4.6	Return to the base camp	8:00 PM July 20, 2019
	6. Person responsible for the report
6.1	Full name, e-mail	Khvostenko O. V. 79039240941@yandex.ru

To the left part of E wall, Zhigalov, 2014, 5A
To the left part of E wall, Korulin–Mukhametzyanov, 2019, 5A orig.
To the center of E wall, Solonnikov, 1987, 4B
To the center of E wall, Yanushevich, 2005, 5B
To the right part and E edge, Prokofiev, 2018, 5B
To the right part of E wall, Terekhin–Khvostenko, 2019, 5A orig.

Description of the Area

The Karavshin area is well described. The peak Zholtaia Stena is one of the most popular peaks in the area. The Solonnikov route via the center of E wall, 4B cat. diff., is probably the most visited. This is facilitated by:

Close proximity to the base camp
Eastern exposure (early sunrise)
Monolithic, climbing terrain
Simple, walking descent from the summit

The route taken by our team has exactly the same advantages. It is monolithic, entirely climbing. In the upper part (after the key pitches), it converges with the Solonnikov route.

Tactical Actions of the Team

The route via the right part of the eastern wall of peak Zholtaia Stena passes through a system of monolithic internal corners. The key pitch R3–R4, passing through two cornices, was assessed by us as 7b on the French scale. This section does not present particular difficulty when passed on artificial aids (A1). It is also possible to bypass this section to the right via simpler terrain. In the upper part, after merging with the Solonnikov route, we chose the left option, passing through a large chimney leading to the sub-summit. We believe that the technical difficulty of the sections, their steepness, and length collectively correspond to 5A cat. diff., even if the key pitch is bypassed and the classic Solonnikov variant is taken in the upper part. The route was climbed free solo by both participants except for the key section (7b). Vasily Terekhin led. Throughout the route (until merging with the Solonnikov route), we encountered three pitons, indicating that this line is logical and may become quite popular after being included in the classifier. The weather during the ascent was good.

Route profile

Route profile from the right

Technical photo of the route

Approach to the start of the route. Team's route. Variant to bypass the key section. Junction with Solonnikov's 4B. Route diagram in UIAA symbols

№	Length, m	Angle	Category
R13
R12	100		2
R11	15	80°	6B
R10	200		2
R9	60	80°	6B
R8	60	65°	5C/6A
R7	25 + 25	75°, 60°	6B, 5C
R6	45	80°	6B (6C – 3 m)
R5	50	80°	6B
R4	30	80°	6B
R3	55	80°	7A+/7B
R2	50	65°	6B
R1	60	65°	6B
R0	55	65°	5C

Description of the Route by Sections

Approach from the base camp through a rope bridge, along the trail to peak Zholtaia Stena 30 min. Then up the couloir to the right of the wall to a small rock tooth on the left side. Cross between the tooth and the wall, then traverse left along green ledges to the start of the route.

R0–R1:

Start on a slab, then right into an internal corner.
Belay station in the internal corner under a blocky structure. 55 m, 5C, 4 anchors, 6 camalots.

R1–R2 From the belay station up through a system of internal corners, bypassing a small cornice to the right, then again up an internal corner, moving right into another internal corner. The move is complex (6C, 3 m).

60 m
6B
4 anchors
10 camalots

R2–R3 Continue movement up the internal corner 35 m to intersect with a diagonal grassy ledge. Easy climbing up to the right 15 m. Belay station on the ledge under the next internal corner, going up to the left.

Section characteristics:

Length: 50 m
Difficulty: 6B
Number of anchors: 2
Number of camalots: 6

R3–R4 1st variant. Difficult. Key pitch of the route, climbed by the team. From the belay station up a slab, strenuous climbing (protection with anchors), then move right into an internal corner, up through two cornices (both cornices are passed through right slits). Belay station 5 m beyond the second cornice.

Varied, very strenuous climbing. 55 m, 7A+/7B, 6 anchors, 14 camalots, 4 stoppers. Unfortunately, it was not possible to pass the second cornice completely cleanly, without hanging, as the rock is covered with moss at this point (otherwise the route is quite clean).

2nd variant. Easy. Move right up the ledge to a large internal corner formed by the main wall and a "finger," 30 m, 3 cat. Up the internal corner about 30 m, category approximately 6A/6B. Belay station at the same level as variant 1, but slightly to the right.

R4–R5:

Up a slab through a system of slits, strenuous climbing 15 m, protection with anchors.
Then a complex move left into a huge internal corner, up it 15 m.

30 m, 6B, 4 anchors, 5 camalots.

R5–R6 Up a huge internal corner (chimney). Strenuous leg work. 50 m, 6B, 3 anchors, 10 camalots. Can be split into two pitches at a belay station.

R6–R7 Continue up the internal corner to its end. From the corner, a careful move left onto a ledge, into a thin slit, movement up to the left (slit 8 m, protection with anchors). From the slit into another large internal corner. At the end of the section, a wall 6C – 3 m. Belay station on a ledge in the corner.

45 m, 6B, 6 anchors, 4 camalots.

R7–R8 Exit from the corner up through a cornice. Junction with Solonnikov's route 4B. 25 m, 6B, 6 camalots. Up to the right through an internal corner on Solonnikov's route. Belay station comfortable on a shoulder. 25 m, 5C, 5 camalots.

Further, one can follow Solonnikov's route on easy rock. We went left through a large chimney.

R8–R9 From the belay station slightly up, then left around the corner. Movement towards a large chimney. Belay station 20 m before the chimney. 60 m, 5C/6A, 1 anchor, 7 camalots.

R9–R10 Approach to the chimney through a slit, bypassing a huge jammed stone. 20 m, 6A, 4 camalots. Chimney 40 m. In the middle, can be protected with stoppers and small friends. 40 m, 6B. Can make an intermediate belay station before the start of the chimney. For passing the chimney, the leader should remove unnecessary gear.

R10–R13 Further on Solonnikov's route: ascent to the sub-summit, descent to a saddle. Simultaneous climbing. 200 m, 2. Wall with a slit. 15 m, 6B. Simultaneous climbing to the summit. 100 m, 2.

Descent from the summit first along the ridge to the west, then down a talus slope into a cirque between Serebryanaya and Zholtaia Stena.