Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.

2. Ascent area: Pamir, Turkestan Range, Aksu valley.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Dalniy, 4541 m, via the right part of the NE wall (2nd ascent).

4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A (rocky).

5. Route characteristics: height difference – 260 m.

   Length of sections:

   • 4th diff. cat. – 10 m
   • 5th diff. cat. – 20 m

   Average steepness of the wall section – 55°.

6. Number of protection points: rock anchors – 28 pcs., nuts – 19 pcs.

7. Number of climbing hours: 10.

8. Number of bivouacs: none.

9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification:

   • Basenko Alexander Ivanovich – Candidate Master of Sports
   • Gatanov Sergey Borisovich – 1st sports category

10. Team coach: Troshchinenko Leonid Andreevich – Honored Master of Sports of the USSR.

11. Dates of departure and return:

    • July 15, 1982 – approach.
    • July 16, 1982 – route, descent, and return to base camp.

Photo of the general view of the peak. Peak Dalniy, 4541 m.

Table of main route characteristics

Brief explanation for the table:

From the base camp in the Aksu valley, follow the trail into the Karasu valley and along it to a scree couloir that leads to the eastern ridge of Peak Dalniy. Up the couloir, over the bend to a good platform for a tent. From the base camp – 6 hours.

From it, up the wall to a system of ledges. Cairn – along the ledges, interspersed with walls, upwards. Key location of the route – a wall with a small number of cracks. Exit to the ridge.

Along the ridge, bearing right and upwards, exit to the shoulder. From it, 2 ropes to the summit. Descent via the northern ridge. 2 sports sections.