Passport

1. Class of rock climbing ascents
2. Fann Mountains, Arg valley
3. Arg peak, 4200 m, via the north wall (A. Maly route variation)
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference 1200 m route length 1805 m, including category IV-VI sections 525 m
6. Pitons driven: rock pitons — 78 (6+5*) bolt pitons — 6* (1*) chock stones — 83 (4)
7. Climbing hours — 34, days — 3
8. Overnight stops 2 — bivouac sacks
9. Team leader: Andrey Yu. Bobylev, 1st sports category Team members: Mikhail M. Devi, 1st sports category; Oleg I. Skokov, 1st sports category; Alexander V. Suvorov, 1st sports category
10. Coach: Alexey V. Lebedikhin, Master of Sports of International Class
11. Departure to the route — August 10, 1987 summit ascent — August 12, descent — August 12
12. Organization — Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee

Mt. Arg. Photo from the slope at the foot of Selegrad and Lardash peaks (shot point #1). Distance 2 km. "Lubitel 166" camera (T-22 lens)

Photo of the wall profile from the right (from the 5A category route) (shot point #2). Distance 400 m. "Smena 8M" camera (T-43 lens)

Tactical Actions of the Team

Tactically, the ascent plan included two possible route variations — with one and two overnight stops. This was due to the lack of detailed information about the route's nature and condition (no detailed description or consultations were available) and unstable weather.

Overall, the team followed the second variation, although with some deviations. On the first day, the tactical plan was fully executed, but it became clear that completing the route would require maximum effort and skill, as the already challenging and smooth walls with minimal handholds were further complicated by water flowing down them in many places (a snowy winter, cold summer, and warm weather during the ascent caused intense snowmelt on the bastion's "roof").

On the second day, the route became even more challenging and steeper. The team reached category III difficulty at 15:00 and continued moving upwards. However, it soon became clear that traversing the five ropes remaining to category IV would take a lot of time, and they would only reach the overnight stop by late evening. The situation was complicated by worsening weather, with snow starting to fall.

Under these conditions, the team made a tactically correct decision:

• to bivouac at category III, where there was a small platform, and to process the key section of the route.

Actions of the participants:

• Devi and Skokov descended to category III, where they worked on expanding the platform, making it possible to organize a bivouac;
• Bobylev and Suvorov continued upwards, processed three ropes, and then descended to the bivouac.

On the next day, using fixed ropes, the team quickly approached category IV, reached the summit, and descended to the base camp.

Throughout the wall section of the route, the team used alternating movement with rope interaction between the rope teams. The first to lead were:

• Bobylev — on sections R0-R12,
• Skokov — on sections R12-R18,
• Suvorov — on sections R18-R23.

After reaching the top of the bastion and until the summit, the team moved in autonomous rope teams on a shortened rope. On sections requiring alternating movement, protection was provided using rock features.

The team used a wide range of modern equipment:

• titanium pitons and carabiners
• chock stones of various shapes and sizes from 4 to 120 mm
• slings
• jammers
• etriers

Among the relatively new equipment used were "Friends". For overnight stops, they used a homemade frame tent that could be easily set up on any terrain and an autoclave that saved time and fuel when preparing meals.

The team had four ropes (one made in the GDR), allowing each climber to move on a double rope. The lead climber moved without a backpack, and everyone wore galoshes. To ensure maximum safety for the lead climber, an energy absorber was used. Belay stances were organized whenever possible:

• on pitons, linked with the main rope;
• sometimes on chock stones, using opposition systems.

The regime of movement, rest, and nutrition included two hot meals a day, in the morning and evening, in addition to individual snacks on the route consisting of:

• sausage,
• chocolate,
• dried fruits,
• two flasks of drink.

Snacks were taken without stopping the team's movement, during forced pauses. Overnight stops were organized in safe locations on platforms large enough for four people to rest lying down. The first overnight stop used a ready-made platform, and the second stop used a platform that was expanded to the required size. During overnight stops, all participants were on self-arrest positions. Overall, the team completed the route confidently, without undue haste, with a sufficient margin of safety, facilitated by the high physical and technical preparation of all team members.

Communication with the base camp was maintained via radio five times a day, and the team also had flares in case of an emergency.

The rescue team, consisting of 6 people with CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports) qualification and 1st sports category:

• was based at the base camp on the Tepa meadow;

• was within 30 minutes from the start of the route;

• was ready to provide quick and qualified assistance to the team if needed.

• 10 a⁻

Route Description by Sections

The route to Arg peak via the north wall is one of the most challenging in the area. Tajik climbers refer to it as the "little six".

The entire route can be conditionally divided into two parts. The upper part does not pose significant difficulties, while the lower, more challenging part ("The Bastion") is a rock wall with an average steepness of 65°. The lower part of the wall is more gentle, becoming steeper towards the top and finishing with overhangs and roofs across almost its entire width. The relief of "The Bastion" is weakly dissected and consists of smooth rocks with small holds. Several waterfalls flow down the wall from the top, limiting the "corridor" leading to the summit. Movement is mostly through chimneys and internal corners, complicated by water flowing through them.

The route starts approximately in the central part of the wall, along the center of a not very pronounced wide counterfortress about 200 m high.

The first 60 m — rocks are broken, with loose stones on ledges.

The next 20 m — monolithic rocks with very small holds. There are few cracks for pitons and chock stones. This section is traversed on friction and ends with a small ledge.

Further movement goes right and up. The first 40 m do not pose serious difficulties but have unfavorable relief for organizing a belay stance at the top.

Above, the rocks become steeper (80°). The path goes up:

• first through a not very pronounced, almost vertical internal corner (40 m),
• then along a wall (40 m) with good holds.

Further on, the rocks become gentler but more monolithic. The holds here are small, and some places are traversed on friction. This section (30 m) ends with a wide inclined ledge ("terrace"), where the first control cairn is located.

The path then goes along a heavily dissected wall (40 m) with good holds, starting from the left side of the "terrace" and leading into a wet chimney. Water flows down the walls of the chimney. The holds are smooth and местами covered with slippery dirt. In the lower part (30 m), the chimney is almost vertical and is traversed using artificial aids. Above, the chimney becomes gentler and is bypassed on the right and left along monolithic dry rocks.

60 m from the start of the chimney, it turns into a crack. This section (20 m) is bypassed on the right along smooth rocks with very small holds, mainly on friction. There are no places to drive pitons or place chock stones here.

Further on, another chimney begins (115 m). Water flows through this chimney, and some sections are bypassed on the right and left. The rocks in this section are monolithic, with small holds and very few cracks for pitons and chock stones. An old bolt piton is used for protection.

The chimney leads to a "grotto". Here are:

• the second control cairn;
• a good place for an overnight stop.

Organizing a bivouac here poses a problem with water. It can only be collected by catching drops falling from the overhanging roof above the grotto.

From the grotto, move right for 25 m along broken rocks to an inclined ledge with loose stones, from which a chimney starts upwards. In its lower part, the chimney is very wide and is bypassed on the right along a 40 m wall with small holds. The rocks here are monolithic. Protection is provided using a "Friend". Above, the chimney narrows, and the next 30 m are traversed through it. This section has few cracks, and an old bolt piton is used to organize a belay stance. Further on, the chimney becomes less pronounced. The rocks become gentler (up to 45°) and easier. Move straight up for 40 m to a small ledge, where the third control cairn and a place for an overnight stop are located.

Above the ledge, another chimney starts, with a steepness of 80-65°, transitioning into an internal corner. In its lower part, the chimney is wet, and the first 40 m can be bypassed on the right along a wall and an internal corner. In the upper part, the rocks become broken. Then move 20 m up and right under monolithic overhanging walls along a wall with good holds to an internal corner. To the right, a wet chimney is visible; in its upper part, it becomes overhanging and very wide. Here begins the key section of the route. From here, move left of the chimney straight up for 15 m along a vertical internal corner transitioning into an overhanging wall. Water constantly flows from the roofs above. The rocks are wet and unreliable. The section is traversed using artificial aids with the use of pitons and chock stones. The wall leads to a monolithic inclined slab. From here, traverse left for 30 m, first along the slab under overhanging rocks and then along a vertical wall to an inclined ledge, where two bolt pitons are driven. The section is traversed using artificial aids. From the ledge starts a slightly overhanging wall, 40 m high. It is bypassed on the left through a chimney and then along an inclined internal corner to the right. Here, good holds are available, and traversing this section does not pose difficulties.

Further, the route goes right and up for 40 m along a wall with unreliable holds and exits into a "green" couloir (30 m), which leads to the top of the bastion. Here is the fourth control cairn and a good large platform for an overnight stop. To the right, a large deep snow couloir is visible, leading to the base of the summit tower. Move left of the couloir along "sheep's foreheads" and ledges towards the saddle between the summit and the "yellow" gendarme. This and the following sections do not pose significant difficulties. The average steepness is 45°. Traversing right along a snowfield under the summit tower, move towards the rightmost couloir leading to the saddle between the summit and the "yellow" gendarme, and then 20 m along smooth rocks to the left of it. Then, cross over to the broken rocks of the "yellow" gendarme and move along them, first right and up, then left to the saddle. From here, the path to the summit goes along monolithic rocks of the summit tower with an average steepness of 45°.