5.1.247
20
5.1
Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh valley
p. 5100 via North wall key col
with traverse to p. Gaumysh Gl. (5367 m)
5B comb.
(3rd ascent)
3rd ascent
Ascent Log
- Region: Gaumysh valley, Pamir-Alay.
- Peak — Gaumysh Gl. (6367 m) via p. 5100 North wall key col
- Difficulty category — 5B comb., 3rd ascent
- Route description: height difference — 1650 m
- average steepness 60°
- wall section
- steepness of ice gullies up to 90°
- length of sections with 5–6 cat. 1100 m
- Pitons and other equipment used during ascent:
- rock stoppers ice hooks snow stakes, including
- Total: 198
- 35
- 21
- 124
- 9
- 2
- Climbing time: 48.5 hours
- July 31 — 2 hours approach to the cirque
- August 1 — 13 hours — ascent via bastion to the counterfort
- August 2 — 10 hours 30 minutes — passing the key col
- August 2 — 12 hours — ascent to the "big triangle"
- August 3 — 8 hours — ice slope and processing rocks 35 m
- August 4 — 10+3 hours — ascent to Gaumysh Gl. along the ridge and back, descent to Lzhilisu valley
- August 5 — 8 hours — descent to the confluence with Gaumysh river
- August 6 — 5 hours 30 minutes — ascent to the base camp
- Weather was good. August 5 from 17:00 light snowfall, thunderstorm.
- First to work on the route: Starikov, Pepkin (mostly), Pogodin.
- Number of bivouacs — 4, all in a tent on snow platforms.
- Team "Zenit — 2" members:
- Starikov G.A. — Candidate for Master of Sports, team leader
- Pavlova I.S. — 1st sports category
- Pogodin B.S. — 1st sports category
- Pepkin V.L. — 1st sports category
- Team coach — Korsun A.G., Master of Sports of the USSR.
- This route was first ascended to p. 5100 by the Leningrad team
- "Burevestnik" (M. Beilin) in 1981 and ranked 1st in the Leningrad championship.
- Second ascent to Gaumysh Gl. was made in 1982 by the Moscow regional team of "Zenit" sports society — 1st place in the Central Sports Council championship.
- Our ascent was made without prior route processing.
+5100
= 65200 n fayqutre
fin.