MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK KRAI

KRASNOYARSK KRAI SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Siberian Federal District Championship in Alpinism 2013

Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents

Report

Krasnoyarsk Krai Team, Ascent to Pik Korona 6th Tower, 4860 m via the "canyon" of the western wall

Proposed:

• 5B category of difficulty
• First ascent
• Krasnoyarsk 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, 7.4.
2. Peak — Korona 6th Tower, 4860 m via the "canyon" of the western wall.
3. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty
4. Character of the route — combined.
5. Characteristics of the route:

height difference of the altitudinal part — 700 m, total route — 760 m. Route length — 850 m, length of sections:

• 6th category of difficulty — 200 m.
• 5th category of difficulty — 350 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 70°.

6. Left on the route: pitons — 0, including bolted pitons — 0; " закладок" — 0.

Pitons used on the route:

• bolted stationary — 0
• total IT (Intermediate Technical) equipment about — 200.

7. Number of climbing hours — 22, days — 2.
8. Leader — Loginov Igor Aleksandrovich, Master of Sports

Participants: Khvostenko Oleg Valerievich, Master of Sports

9. Team coaches: Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of International Class, Honored Coach

Balezin Valery Viktorovich, Master of Sports of International Class

10. Date of departure:

on the route — March 5, 2013 at 7:00, on the summit — March 6, 2013 at 18:00, return to Base Camp (Ratsek) — March 7, 2013 at 16:00.

11. Organization: Ministry of Sports, Tourism and Youth Policy of Krasnoyarsk Krai, 2013

    Tactical Actions of the Team

The route was climbed in alpine style without prior processing. Started at night from Ratsek Hut. Approach to the start of the route took about 4 hours.

• On the first day, about 500 m of the route was covered.
• Overnight stay in a tent on a good ledge.
• On the second day, the remaining 350 m of the route were covered.
• Overnight stay on the summit of 6B.
• Descent via traverse through 5B Korona.

The entire route can be divided into two parts:

1. A wide couloir "canyon", crossing the western wall of 6B diagonally from left to right, length 650 m.
2. The summit tower, the route goes along its southern wall, length 200 m.

Comfortable and safe places for overnight stays are available:

• in the upper part of the couloir (exit to the right onto a ridge),
• before the start of the summit tower,
• on the summit tower,
• on the very summit of 6B.

In summer, it is possible to climb the route using free climbing (approximately maximum difficulty up to 6C). However, one should be cautious of rockfall in the couloir.

Approach:

• From Korona Hut
• Through Ak-Sai glacier
• Then to the "bear's corner" — 2 hours 30 minutes

The start of the route is via a snow-ice couloir, transitioning into a clearly defined "canyon".

Description of the Route by Sections

0 — 1. Snow-ice slope, transitioning into a couloir. 100 m, 50°. 1 — 2. Internal­ angle with cracks, at the end a small cornice. Exit into a large couloir. 30 m, 75°. 2 — 3. Wide rocky couloir "canyon" with flowstone. 220 m, 65°. 3 — 4. Vertical chimney. 50 m, 85°. 4 — 5. Continuation of the couloir, exit to the right onto a flattening. 100 m, 75°. Good ledge for a tent.

5 — 6. Along the wall to the right of the couloir to the exit onto a shoulder. 150 m, 80°. 6 — 7. Summit tower — a system of walls and ledges. Good relief, местами разрушенный. 200 m, 75°. Scheme of the route in UIAA symbols

General photo of the route

Technical photo of the route

Section R1–R2. I. Loginov is leading

1. Introduction

This document provides an overview of the key concepts and methodologies used in the study ofquan­tum me­chan­ics.

• Fun­da­men­tal prin­ci­ples
• Ma­the­ma­ti­cal for­mu­la­tions
• Prac­ti­cal ap­pli­ca­tions

2. Fun­da­men­tal Prin­ci­ples

2.1 Wave-Par­ti­cle Du­al­i­ty

Quan­tum me­chan­ics in­tro­duces the con­cept of wave-par­ti­cle du­al­i­ty, where par­ti­cles such as e­lec­trons and pho­tons ex­hib­it both wave-like and par­ti­cle-like prop­er­ties. This du­al­i­ty is cen­tral to un­der­stand­ing the be­hav­ior of quan­tum sys­tems.

2.2 Su­per­po­si­tion

The prin­ci­ple of su­per­po­si­tion states that a quan­tum sys­tem can ex­ist in mul­ti­ple states si­mul­ta­ne­ous­ly un­til it is mea­sured. This is ma­the­ma­ti­cal­ly rep­re­sent­ed by a wave func­tion, de­not­ed as |ψ⟩.

2.3 Un­cer­tain­ty Prin­ci­ple

The Hei­sen­berg Un­cer­tain­ty Prin­ci­ple states that it is im­pos­si­ble to si­mul­ta­ne­ous­ly know the ex­act po­si­tion and mo­men­tum of a par­ti­cle. This is ex­pressed as: Δx ⋅ Δp ≥ ℏ/2 where:

• Δx is the un­cer­tain­ty in po­si­tion,
• Δp is the un­cer­tain­ty in mo­men­tum,
• ℏ is the re­duced Planck con­stant.

3. Math­e­mat­i­cal For­mu­la­tions

3.1 Schrö­din­ger Equa­tion

The Schrö­din­ger equa­tion is a fun­da­men­tal equa­tion in quan­tum me­chan­ics that des­cribes how the quan­tum state of a phys­i­cal sys­tem changes o­ver time. It is giv­en by: iℏ ∂/∂t Ψ(r, t) = Ĥ Ψ(r, t) where:

• Ĥ is the Ham­il­to­ni­an op­er­a­tor,
• Ĥ is the Ham­il­to­ni­an op­er­a­tor,
• ℏ is the re­duced Planck con­stant.

3.2 Di­rac No­ta­tion

Di­rac no­ta­tion is a con­ve­ni­ent and con­ve­ni­ent way to rep­re­sent quan­tum states and op­er­a­tors. It us­es bra-ket no­ta­tion, where the ket |ψ⟩ rep­re­sents a quan­tum state, and a bra ⟨ψ| rep­re­sents its du­al.

4. Prac­ti­cal Ap­pli­ca­tions

4.1 Quan­tum Com­put­ing

Quantum computing lever­ges the prin­ci­ples of super­po­si­tion and en­tan­gle­ment to per­form com­pu­ta­tions that are in­fea­si­ble for clas­si­cal com­pu­ters. Quantum bits, or qubits, are the fun­da­men­tal units of quantum in­for­ma­tion.

4.2 Quantum Cryp­tog­ra­phy

Quantum cryp­tog­ra­phy uses the prin­ci­ples of quantum me­chan­ics to se­cure com­mu­ni­ca­tion. Quantum key dis­tri­bu­tion (QKD) is a cor­ner­stone of quantum com­pu­ting, where key dis­tri­bu­tion is based on the state of the sys­tem.

5. Con­clu­sion

Quantum me­chan­ics is a cor­ner­stone of mo­dern phy­sics, pro­vid­ing a frame­work for un­der­stand­ing the be­hav­ior of par­ti­cles at the small­est scales. Its prin­ci­ples and ma­the­ma­ti­cal for­mu­la­tions have led to ground­break­ing tech­nol­o­gies and con­tinue to drive in­no­va­tion in var­i­ous fields.

6. Ref­er­ences

• Grif­fiths, D. J. (2005). In­tro­duc­tion to Quantum Me­chan­ics. Pear­son.
• Shan­kar, R. (2012). Prin­ci­ples of Quantum Me­chan­ics. Ple­num Press.

Sec­tion 3–4

4-5

YAGEN 4–5

Sec­tion R6–R7

1999

1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999 1999

1966

1966

At the summit 64