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2006 Russian Alpinism Championship – technical ascents category

Report

Tomsk Federation Team

on the ascent to Korona 5th Tower peak (4860 m) via the center of the Southwest wall, 6A category (route by V. Balezin, 1996)

Coach: G. V. Novoselova Team Leader: A. A. Bumazhenko

Team Members:

O. V. Filatyev

Tomsk – 2006

Ascent Details

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley.
2. Peak name: Korona 5th Tower 4860 m.
3. Route by V. Balezin (1996) — center of the Southwest wall.
4. Route characteristics: combined rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Length of sections: V category 600 m, VI category 110 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 80° entire route — 70°
6. Pitons left on the route: total: 3, including bolted pitons: 0. Pitons used on the route: 22, chocks: 64, bolted pitons not used. Total artificial anchors (AIDs) used: 20.
7. Team's climbing hours: 32 hours, 3 days.
8. Team Leader: Andrey A. Bumazhenko, CMS. Team Members: Oleg V. Filatyev, CMS.
9. Coach: Galina V. Novoselova.
10. Departure for the route: 7:00 February 7, 2006. Summit reached: 16:30 February 9, 2002. Return to Base Camp: 21:30 February 9, 2002.

Photo 1. Korona 5th Tower (4860 m)

1. Egorov V. 5A
2. Sadovsky V. 5B
3. Balezin V. 6A
4. Ruzhevsky V. 5B

Photo taken from Axsay glacier on February 8, 2002.

Photo 2. Technical photo of the ascent

N1 — Sitting bivouac on a sloping ledge on February 7, 2006, elevation 4350 m. N2 — Sitting bivouac on a ledge on February 8, 2006, elevation 4600 m.

Photos of sections:

Section 5.

Section 10.

Section 14.