V. Korona (4th)

4820 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Korona (4th) via the western wall and ice gully “5A,” (c)

Participants: Temerev I.M. Novoseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2014

Ascent Passport:

TIAN-SHAN, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa valley, #7
Peak Korona (4th), via the western wall and ice gully.
First ascent, proposed 5A category of difficulty.
Nature of the route: combined.
Height difference of the route — 610 m.

Start of movement at an altitude of 4210 m. Start of climbing at an altitude of 4350 m. Height difference of the main part of the route 470 m. Total route length — 875 m. Length of sections:

III category of difficulty — 275 m.
IV category of difficulty — 260 m.
V category of difficulty — 140 m.
VI category of difficulty — 60 m.

Average steepness:

main part of the route — 65°

Number of pitons used on the route:

ice screws — 32 pcs., including ITO – 0 pcs.
anchor pitons — 17 pcs., including ITO – 0 pcs.
protection elements — 18 pcs., including ITO – 0 pcs.

Team's working hours: 9 hours, 1 day.
Team leader: — Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich — MS Participant: — Novoseltsev Alexander Valerievich — CMS
Coach: Sapunova Yu.V.
Departure from Koronskie nocheevki: 6:00, March 13, 2014.

Start of work on the route: 8:00, March 13, 2014. Reaching the summit: 17:00, March 13, 2014. Return to nocheevki: 22:00, March 13, 2014.

Organization: MROO “Tomsk Alpinism Federation”.

Photo of the general view of the summit

5A Egorov's route
5B Sadovsky's route 1968
6A Balezina's route 1994
5B Ruzhevsky's route 1976
5A Temerev's route 2014

Photo of the route profile.

Photopanorama of the area.

1 — Semenov Tian-Shansky peak 4875 m 2, 3, 4 — Korona — massif with summits from 4750 to 4860 m, marked by numbers: 1st, 2nd and 3rd towers, to the left are visible 4th, 5th and 6th towers. 5 — Izyiskatel peak 4400 m. 6 — Kosmonavtov peak 4200 m. 7 — Baylyan-Bashi 4700 m. 8 — Simagin peak 4400 m. 9 — Svobodnaya Korea peak 4740 m.

Scheme of the ascent route in UIAA symbols

Description of the route by sections

From Koronskie nocheevki camps move along the glacier under the SW wall of peak Korona 5th tower. Further movement is along the ice gully towards the start of Sadovsky's 5B route.

R1: 380 m, III–IV, 35–45–55°. Move simultaneously (in steep places alternately) up the ice gully closer to the southwest wall of peak Korona.
R2: 20 m, IV, 70–80°. Under the rock wall blocking the ice gully leading to the 4th tower of Korona, take a left turn (in the direction of travel). Start moving on rocks from the left side of a vaguely defined “rock lap–patch” via a rock chimney. At the top of the “lap” is a base.
R3: 60 m, VI, 80–90°. Up a small inner corner and to the right onto the rock wall. Constantly shifting to the right.
R4: 30 m, V, 80°. Up a dissected corner. Exit to rocks via ice. In case of snowfall, this place is very dangerous — it is a natural collection point for everything falling from above.
R5: 60 m, V, 80–90°. Inner corner and rocks in the ice. Mixed climbing 25–30 m. Exit onto thin ice. Insurance is problematic. Drilled ice screws only at the belay station at the end of the section.
R6: 240 m, IV–V, 65–70°. Up the ice gully. Belay stations were set under the cover of rocks to protect against falling stones from above (the side walls of the gully are heavily destroyed).
R7: 65 m, V–III, 80°. The ice gully abuts the summit rock bastion of the 4th tower. A small ice stream goes to the right in the direction of travel. Gradually, the climbing becomes mixed, and then simplifies to III.
R8: 20 m, III, 45°. Exit onto the summit tower.