Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Kyngarga gorge.

Peak — Trekhglavaya (C) 2611 m. Route — left part of the northern wall, proposed category of difficulty 4A, first ascent.

Route characteristics — rock. Route characteristics — height difference 500 m, route length about 1000 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 50 m. Average steepness of the route 55°.

Left on the route — pitons 0. Used pitons on the route: 22, including:

• " закладок" — 8
• including ITO — 2.

Number of walking hours — 6.5

Leader — Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich — 1st sports category

Participant — Davydenko Mikhail Alexandrovich — 1st sports category

Date of departure: on the route from "Nadezhda" — October 28, 2006 at 7:00

To the summit — October 28, 2006 at 15:00. Return to "Nadezhda" — October 28, 2006 at 18:00. Approach to the route from the "Nadezhda" shelter takes about an hour and a half, the start of the route is in the right part of the couloir between the central bastion and the "red rocks".

R0–R1. From the above-mentioned couloir along an inclined shelf to the left 15 m, then up about 35 m along a clearly expressed edge. Steepness of the section is about 45°, 2+.

Sect. 1–2. Up the edge 35 m of simple rocks. To a clearly expressed inner corner.

Sect. 2–3. Inner corner 35 m about 60°, 3+, station on a shelf. Sect. 3–4.

The first key section is a monolithic wall to the left of the larger "green" corner with a small amount of relief suitable for passage:

• 2–3 m to the left to a flake
• then about 20 m of complex climbing, approximately 5th category of difficulty, A1, about 60°
• used for passage 3 anchor pitons
• station on relief

Sect. 4–5 From a shelf slightly to the right — up and around a slab, then 15 m to the left to a small flake, from which a diagonal crack begins, along which 35 m to a wall, under which a station on two anchors, for passage two anchor pitons were needed for intermediate belay points. 3+, 60°.

Sect. 5–6 From the station to the left — around a corner, then along an unexpressed grassy corner and a system of shelves 50 m up, to a station on a small shelf (2 anchors). For passage, one medium-sized friend was used. 3+, 60°

Sect. 6–7 To the right along a small shelf 10 m of simple climbing (1 friend), then up to a wall 25 meters (1 friend), then the second key section — an exit to a ledge, about 15 meters of climbing, 5th category of difficulty. For passage, 1 anchor piton was used, steepness of the section is close to 70^{\circ}. Then a station on a large shelf behind relief. Sect. 7–8 From the ledge, relatively simple climbing, approximately 40 meters up. Station on relief. Sect. 8–9 From the station about 15 meters to a large convenient shelf, approximately 4th category of difficulty, with belay on ledges. Station on a закладной element and a piton. Steepness of the section is about 55^{\circ}. Sect. 9–10 Key section of the route — a red inner corner with a vertical crack, approximately 20 meters of climbing, 5+ category of difficulty, steepness about 75^{\circ}. On the section, about 5 points were set, then climbing becomes easier, up to 4+, approximately 10 meters — an exit to the roof of the red bastion, station behind relief.

Sect. 10–11. About a hundred meters of uncomplicated rocks to the exit to the route 2Б category along the North-Eastern ridge.

Sect. 11–12. Along the route 2Б about 400 meters of uncomplicated climbing to the summit of Trekhglavaya (C)

Route Scheme