Ascent Certificate for Krylya Sovetov Peak 3341 m via Cold Peak (3280 m), along the North Counterfort, proposed for categorization

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Muguvek gorge, section 6.1.1.
2. Krylya Sovetov peak 3341 m via Cold Peak (3280 m) along the North Counterfort.
3. Proposed for categorization, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1015 m, average steepness of the main part 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 20.
7. Team's travel time — 12 hours.
8. One cold bivouac on descent.
9. Group: Pereleva A.S. 3rd sports category Afanasiev A.E. Master of Sports Ilyinsky V.A. 3rd sports category Kikina E.I. 1st sports category Rassadin K.P. 3rd sports category
10. Coach — Afanasiev A.E. Master of Sports.
11. Summit reached on May 7, return on May 8, 2011.

Description of the Ascent Route to Krylya Sovetov Peak 3341 m via Cold Peak 3280 m, along the North Counterfort, proposed for categorization

The approach to the route from the base camp near the forest boundary takes 3–4 hours. The initial part of the approach to the lower section of the couloir between Aviator and Cold Peak coincides with the approach to the 3B route on Aviator. Then:

• Traverse to the counterfort left of the couloir.

The route begins approximately two-thirds below the start of the routes on Aviator, at an elevation of about 2800 m.

Sect. R0–R1 150 m, 40° II–. Snow-covered slabs with loose scree. Sect. 1–2 25 m, 60° III+. The ridge abuts a rock wall. Bypass left via snow-covered slabs. Pitons. Sect. 2–3 30 m, 45° II+. The ridge is broken and snow-covered. Sect. 3–4 30 m, 45° II+. Left of the gendarme via slabs. Sect. 4–5 50 m, 55° IV–. Rocks on the ridge. Sect. 5–6 15 m, 90° IV–. Rappelling. Sect. 6–7 60 m, 50° III+. Snow-covered rocks. Sect. 7–8 30 m, 5° II–. Ridge — slabs. Sect. 8–9 70 m, 35° I+. Snow slope. Sect. 9–10 20 m, 50° III–. Traverse left. Slabs. Sect. 10–11 30 m, 70° IV+. Slabs. Snow. Crevice. Sect. 11–12 30 m, 45° I–. Shelf left. Sect. 12–13 15 m, 55° III+. Slabs upwards to the ridge. Sect. 13–14 100 m, 35° II+. Ridge leading to Cold Peak. Sect. 14–15 350 m, I–. Ridge of the Bolshoy Sayan range. Final part of the traverse from Munku-Sardyk to Krylya Sovetov. Better to move slightly right of the ridge, can be done unroped. Descent along the ridge back west towards Aviator Peak for 40 meters. Then down and right via the descent couloir, approximately category 1. One 20-meter sport pitch. Upper part — loose scree with live rocks on a 40° slope. Lower part — snow-filled couloir. Potential avalanche danger. Alternative descent: back along the ridge to the saddle between Cold and Aviator Peaks. Then down and right via the north couloir, sticking to its left side, bypassing the debris along a steep snow shelf under the rocks of Aviator's large gendarme. After passing the gendarme's wall, descent can be made:

• via the gully
• along the inter-couloir ridge

depending on snow conditions and avalanche risk.

The first ascensionists on descent were caught in a snowstorm in the dark. Moving through the snowy couloir with protection via outcrops and artificial anchors set in the rock border of the couloir, the leader twice sank into a snow quagmire over 2 meters deep. Due to avalanche danger and visibility limited to less than 3 meters (headlamp beams couldn't penetrate the dense snowfall), a decision was made:

• to have a cold bivouac on a safe section until dawn.

In the morning, a safe descent route was found.

UIAA Scheme for Krylya Sovetov via Cold Peak

4. Schematic map of Krylya Sovetov via Cold Peak.

5. Photopanorama of the Munku-Sardyk massif with routes marked.

6. Technical photo of Krylya Sovetov via Cold Peak. R0

7. First section.

8. Section 4–5.

9. Section 8–9.

10. Section 9–10.

11. On section 11.

12. Section 12–13.

13. Group on descent after a cold bivouac.