1986 RSFSR Alpinism Championship High-altitude ascents class

Report

On the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the S buttress from Walter Glacier, traverse through p. Khokhlova

Combined team of Irkutsk Oblast

Leader: Popov V.N.

Coach: Popov V.N.

Organization

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under Irkutsk Oblast Executive Committee

Irkutsk, Karla Marksa str., 33

Team leader: Popov V.N. 664047, Irkutsk, 4-ya Sovetskaya str., apt. 104

Team coach: Popov V.N. 664047, Irkutsk, 4-ya Sovetskaya str., apt. 104

All elevations mentioned in the report were determined using a map and altimeter.

Ascent details

I. High-altitude class.

2. Academy of Sciences range, Walter Glacier.
3. Khokhlova — Kommunizma, 7495 m, via S buttress from Walter Glacier, traverse.
4. 5B category of difficulty, classified.
5. Elevation gain 2895 m, distance 3900 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 categories of difficulty. Sections with 6th category of difficulty — 160 m; 5th category of difficulty — 740 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

rock stoppers ice screws 73 6 95

7. Total climbing hours: 4350 hours (5 days).
8. Night bivouacs: 1st and 2nd on artificially created platforms, 3rd and 4th on ice-hollowed sites in tents.
9. Leader: Popov Valeriy Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of the USSR.

Team members:

• Zhila Andrey Yuvenalievich, Master of Sports of the USSR
• Karataev Vladimir Alexandrovich, Master of Sports of the USSR
• Donskoy Konstantin Dmitrievich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Tokarev Alexander Alexeevich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Kirillov Alexander Alexeevich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Bystrov Sergey Pavlovich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Taran Nikolay Stakhovich, Candidate Master of Sports

10. Coach: Popov Valeriy Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of the USSR.

11. Departure for the route August 2, 1986. Summit August 15, 1986. Return August 16, 1986.

Photo 2. Profile of the wall on the right. August 16, 1986, 14:00 "Industar 61" F=52, S=1500 m, T №1 H=5600 m.

Photo 1. General photo of the summit from the ridge of Peak Korzhenevskoi.

Map of the area M 1:100 000

Route profile M 1:10 000

Brief overview of the ascent area

Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) belongs to the Academy of Sciences range, Central Pamir, and is the highest point in our country.

The final height and location of the highest peak in the USSR were established in 1928. In 1933, alpinist E. Abalakov made the first ascent of this peak. Peak Kommunizma, as a high-altitude magnet, has always fascinated alpinists. The large number of routes laid on it and the many alpinists who have been there and are striving to get there speak eloquently about this.

Currently, thanks to helicopters, the peak has become quite accessible to many. From Daraut-Kurgan and Lakhsh, or Jirgital, one can reach here by helicopter.

The most favorable period for ascending the peak is August.

More detailed information about Peak Kommunizma can be found in V. Motylev's book "Five highest peaks of the USSR".

Preparation for the ascent

Targeted preparation for the ascent began in autumn 1985. The planned route required participants to have serious physical and technical preparation, and high endurance. All candidates for the team had experience in high-altitude ascents. All had experience climbing Peak Lenin; in addition, many had experience in technical ascents. Therefore, a plan was drawn up for the preparatory period, aimed at improving technical and increasing physical preparation. Skiing and participation in short-term training camps on Lake Baikal and in the Eastern Sayan Mountains allowed the team to fulfill the planned preparation program during the preparatory period.

In the main period, the prepared team members were in the Ushlyak gorge, where a training camp was held, and they participated in the USSR Championship.

In the first days of August, the team was delivered by helicopter to Moskvina Glacier. V. Bezzubkin's route is one of the difficult and beautiful routes to Peak Kommunizma.

When drawing up the tactical plan, the following features arising from the character of the wall were taken into account:

• movement along the ropes was planned with backpacks on;
• the ration was 430 g of dry product per person per day;
• on the steep section, the movement of all participants was planned on a double rope.

Ascent schedule

Tactical actions of the team

According to the tactical plan, the departure was scheduled for 7:00 on August 2. It snowed all night and morning, so they started the route at 10:00. Thus, a delay from the tactical plan was immediately created, which they were unable to catch up on later.

On the first day, the Karataev V. — Taran N. rope worked. The following scheme of movement was applied along the steep rocky part of the route:

• The first participant passes the route without a backpack with insurance on a double rope.
• Each subsequent participant moves also on a double rope: one of the ropes serves as "rails," the other as upper belay.

This scheme provides not only a high tempo of movement but also sufficient reliability and has been used by the team on complex routes for many years. Since all participants have equal capabilities, a new leader was appointed every day.

The schedule of work for the ropes on subsequent days was as follows:

• On the second day, Bystrov S. — Kirillov S. worked.
• Then Tokarev A. — Donskoy K.
• Then Popov V. — Zhila A.

Meals were two times a day — hot food in the morning and evening, and individual nutrition during the day. Due to the high dryness of the air, the body loses a lot of moisture, so increased water consumption was planned.

Overnight stays on the buttress were not very comfortable. On the ridge, there was no such problem.

Communication with the base camp was carried out via "Karat" radio three times a day.

Description of the route by sections

Section R0–R1 Ice slope. Insurance via ice screws.

Section R1–R2 Vertical walls alternate with slabs. Passed by free climbing in crampons on rocks.

Section R2–R3 Icy inner corners and walls. Insurance via universal pitons and ice screws.

Section R3–R4 Not a pronounced ridge with vertical walls, covered in ice, passed in crampons.

Section R4–R5 Rocky walls with ledges lead to an icy ridge.

Section R5–R6 Along the icy ridge, approach under the snow-ice slope. Insurance via ice axe and ice screws.

Section R6–R7 Snow-ice slope leads to the ridge of Peak Khokhlova above the plateau. Ice is very hard. Ice screws.

Section R7–R10 Snow-ice slope with rock outcrops. Piton insurance necessary. Exit to the saddle of p. Khokhlova.

Section R10–R12 Snow ridge with rock outcrops leads to the summit. Simultaneous movement.

Route diagram in symbols M 1:10 000

Equipment table

Photo 5. On section R1–R2. Photo 6. On section R1–R2.

Photo 7. On section R3–R4.

Photo 8. Movement along the snow ridge. Section R5–R6.

Photo 9. View from section R5–R6 from above.

Photo 10. On section R6–R7.

Photo 11. On Peak Khokhlova.

Photo 12. Ridge on section R10–R11.

Photo 13. On the summit of Peak Kommunizma.