St. Petersburg Championship

2016

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

St. Petersburg Combined Team Gai-Komd Peak, 3192 m, via the center of the SE wall Kharitonov Route, 1986, 6A category of difficulty

St. Petersburg, 2016

Ascent Passport

Region 2.9 – Caucasus, from the Pereval Krepostovoy to Shaviklde peak;
Gai-Komd, 3192 m, via the center of the SE wall;
Category of difficulty — 6A;
Route type — rock;
Route characteristics: route length – 1055 m; wall section – 812 m; height difference 780 m, wall section height difference 670 m; length of 6th category of difficulty sections – 225 m, 5th category of difficulty – 467 m; average steepness of the wall section – 75°;
Belay points used on the route: Total (including standing pitons) 227 / 80; Anchors and pitons 87; Nuts 81; Bolt hanger / removable bolt hanger pitons 9 / 10;
Number of climbing hours – 38, days – 5;
Team leader – Ivan Dождев, 1st sports category; Team members: Alexander Gukov, 1st sports category;
Team coaches: Tatyana Timoshenko;
Departure dates: On the route – November 3, 2016, 10:00 AM. Acclimatization – from November 3, 2016 to November 5, 2016. Rest day – November 6, 2016. Summit attempt – November 8, 2016, 6:15 PM. Return to Base Camp – November 9, 2016, 1:00 PM.
Organization: FASIL.

General Summit Photo

Via the center of the S wall, A. Kurochkin '83
Via the left part of the SE wall, K. Doro '03
Via the center of the SE wall, A. Kharitonov '86 Photo date – November 2016

Wall Profile Photo

Area Photopanorama

Ascent Graph

Weather Conditions	Clear	Clear	Clear	Clear	Clear	Clear
3192
3100
3000
2900
2800
2700	Acclimatization 3–5 November
2600
2500
2400
Date	November 3, 2016	November 4, 2016	November 5, 2016	November 6, 2016	November 7, 2016	November 8, 2016
Working Time	10:00 AM–4:30 PM	9:00 AM–5:00 PM	11:00 AM–5:00 PM	Rest day	9:15 AM–5:30 PM	8:00 AM–6:15 PM (to the summit)

UIAA Diagram

Rock, Anchor Pitons	Nuts	Camalot	Bolt Pitons	Section #	Length	Average Steepness, degrees	Difficulty	Date
		2		R21	200	35	II
				R20	43	55	IV
1	1			R19	7	75	V, A1
2	1	4		R18	50	80	V
3	1	4	1	R17	45	80	V
2	5	1		R16	45	80	V, A1
4	1	2		R15	50	50	V–10 m, II–40 m
4	7			R14	50	70	V	November 8, 2016
4	1	6		R13	40	90	VI, A2
2	2	7		R12	45	80	V
7	1	4		R11	45	75	IV
5	5			R10	50	80	V, A1
				R9	45	80	V	November 7, 2016
6	2			R8	25	75	V, A1
6	5			R7	50	80	VI, A2
5	1	4	4	R6	45	90	VI, A2	November 5, 2016
6	3	2	6	R5	50	90	VI, A3
8	4			R4	40	80	VI, A2	November 4, 2016
5	2			R3	50	75	V
7	1			R2	45	70	V, A1
5	1			R1	35	65	IV	November 3, 2016

Summit Note

November 5, 2016, 2:30 PM MAC, "Freeline" Essentuki Team leader: S.V. Bugaev Team members: E.A. Belash D.A. Grabovenko R.A. Kovalev A.P. Kuchev P.R. Varshavskiy Completed ascent to Girič Main peak via route 1B R.F. Descent via the ascent route. Clear weather. Sea of clouds below.