Sokol — 29
Khohla po zerekalam 5B cat. sl.[№14]
(A. Kruglenko, aka
«Khokhol»)
Khohla po zerekalam 2nd rope
R0–R1: 50 m, 6B, A1. Up the crack through the characteristic tree, then up left to a neat transition left onto a spit. After it — a rocky passage (with holes). Station on a bollard and pitons.
R1–R2: 50–55 m, 6B, A1. Up and slightly left through a system of cracks to a bollard, through it — exit to a flattening, then right up a neat traverse (through a bollard) without possibility to organize belay — 12–15 m to a crack. Up it. Station in an inner corner on a shelf on own gear. In the photo — left variant. There is no information on the right (first ascensionists') variant.
R2–R3: 40 m, 6A. Up the overgrown crack, bypass the cornice on the left, protection on existing pitons + own, station a bit below a leaning block-slab, on two pitons.
R3–R5: ? Go and send us a description :-) Apparently, the author's variant goes straight up, but we didn't find a logical passage to the top and went left.
Recommended equipment:
Rope 50–60 m, set of nuts and cams, 20 quickdraws, 2 large and 3–4 small slings, 3 ladders, hammers, various pitons, skyhooks, including those for holes.
General impression:
A good challenging 5B. By labor intensity it's more like a 6. No easy or difficult ropes, each rope requires work. Time to complete 7–9 hours. In winter conditions, the route is climbed in two days, which is what we did.
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