Arguably, this is a first ascent.
Teke-Tor
Ak-Sai glacier · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
Full-day route. A fast retreat is no longer always possible; route-finding and descent need attention, a delay leads to a late finish.
There are isolated dangerous spots, but they are short or well controlled by start time and line choice. The risk is usually clear and local.
A fall is usually well controlled: reliable gear close by, clear belays, terrain that does not lead to hitting ledges or the ground.
5 sections · 458 m
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
About 70–80°: already steep ice where confident front-pointing and careful tool work are needed.
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Translated from Russian
Arguably, this is a first ascent.