Peak: Abkhaziya peak Route: S buttress of W ridge from Ritsa Pass Cat. of difficulty: 1B Group leader: Solod S. D. Mountain region: Western Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

Report

on the first ascent of Abkhaziya peak via the southern buttress of the western ridge from Ritsa Pass Dnepropetrovsk 1992

Map of V. Agepsta region. Scale 1:50000

Brief description of the route

• From the base camp, approach the confluence of two rivers near the upper sheepfold. 20 minutes from the camp.
• Then, climb up to the right along the river into the cirque. 1–1.5 hours from the sheepfold.
• Traverse the cirque at the foot of Abkhaziya peak and exit to Ritsa Pass (30–40 minutes from the cirque).
• Along the ridge of the pass, approach the weakly pronounced buttress of the western ridge of Abkhaziya peak.
• Here, at the base of the wall, there is a cairn with a note. This is the start of the route.

From the cairn, climb straight up, then slightly left along the wall, which leads to a weak internal corner. Climbing is difficult. 80 m from the cairn, there is a small ledge where the first control cairn (c.t.) is set up.

Further:

• one rope of very difficult climbing straight up - this is the first crux R2;
• along a steep sloping ledge up to the right;
• up the internal corner, which turns into a small cornice - this is the second crux R5;
• along sloping ledges of medium difficulty, approach a crack in the buttress (about two ropes from the first c.t.);
• before descending into a depression - the second c.t.;
• descend into a 3 m deep depression, then climb up a cleft approximately 20 m. Climbing is very difficult;
• approximately 20 m of medium climbing to a wall that blocks the path along the buttress.

The rocks are somewhat destroyed. Organizing an insurance point is quite difficult.

The wall is bypassed to the right along sloping ledges, then up 10 m, including 5 m of difficult climbing up an internal corner. Further along sloping ledges, one rope of medium difficulty climbing, followed by approximately 120 m of easy climbing to the western ridge of Abkhaziya peak. Along the ridge, 400 m of easy climbing to the peak.

About 50% of the main part of the route (from Ritsa Pass to the ridge) was climbed using fixed ropes.

Descent along the W ridge of Abkhaziya peak via the "Za k.s." route.

Route safety assessment

Overall, the route is not dangerous in good weather. The rocks are quite solid. The first crux (R2) poses a certain danger. The rather fine relief is sometimes not very solid and sometimes "crumbles" under the load from hands, which can lead to a fall due to its significant steepness. It is quite difficult to organize reliable insurance and fixed ropes on the R10 section, also due to the destructiveness of the rocks. Rockfall is possible in this area.