Peak: Pik Abkhaziya Route: N ridge from the western side Difficulty category: 3B Group leader: Solod S. D. Mountain region: Western Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

REPORT

on the first ascent of the route to Pik Abkhaziya via the northern ridge from the western side

Dnepropetrovsk, 1992

Brief description of the route passage

From the base camp, approach the confluence of two rivers at the upper meadow. 20 minutes from the camp. Then up to the right along the river, 20 minutes ascent. From the river, up to the left along steep grassy slopes towards the chasm, turning into a wide chimney. In spring-autumn period, the latter may be filled with snow and ice. The entrance to the chasm is the start of the route.

Ascent through the chasm - rocks up to 40°. Then a wide chimney is blocked by a plug. 4-5 m up in the wedged position with difficult climbing (belay!), transition to the left wall of the chimney, 4 m of difficult climbing upwards. This is the first crux. Up the chimney, turning into a couloir, 40 m upwards. Up the grassy-rocky talus 15 m to the left upwards. Exit to a grassy slope (steepness about 20°). Traversing the slope to the left for about 300 m, exit to a snow patch. Up the snow patch (firn). The steepness of the snow patch after 300 m increases to 40°. From the "tongue" of the snow patch through a randkluft to the left upwards - exit to the saddle between Pik Ritsa and Pik Abkhaziya. From the saddle, 80 m of difficult traverse along the western wall of the northern ridge of Pik Abkhaziya on firn. Steepness of the firn is about 70°. The end of the traverse - an inclined grassy ledge, from which one rope length of difficult climbing upwards on broken rocks with steepness of 75°. This is the crux. Belay conditions are poor. Then one rope length to the left upwards along an inclined ledge, which leads to the ridge. Simple ascent to the tower 40 m. Here is the control cairn. From the tower, about 380 m along the ridge to the summit of Pik Abkhaziya. Traverse from easy to III+ difficulty category.

Descent along the western ridge - route 3A difficulty category.

Safety assessment of the route

Overall, in good weather, the route is quite safe. The danger is posed by:

• Traverse on the firn at the base of the northern ridge of Pik Abkhaziya. In case of a fall, a participant will hit rocky talus 10 m or more in height.
• The crux (R5) is very dangerous - broken small relief and very poor belay conditions.