8.6.2. 3

Ascent Passport

Khibiny mountain massif. Cirque of Chasnachorr 1194 m. Classification table section number: # 8.6
Peak name: Chasnachorr 1194 m, route name — "Barbecue".
Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
Route type: rock.
Route height difference: 470 (by altimeter) Route length: 500 m. Section lengths:
- V cat. diff. — 175 m.
- VI cat. diff. — 30 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route — 87.5°
- entire route — 71°
Pitons left on the route: total — 2; incl. bolted — 2. Pitons used on the route:
- stationary bolted — 2 (incl. artificial aid — 2)
- removable bolted — 5 (incl. artificial aid — 2). Total artificial holds (AID) used — 25 points.
Team's climbing hours: 36 h, 4 days
Leader: Pankov Maxim Anatolyevich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members:
- Andreev Arkady Borisovich, 1st sports category
- Sidorenko Sergey Vasilyevich, 1st sports category
- Orlov Vladimir Alexandrovich, sports category
Coaches: Shumilov O.I., Master of Sports Tinin Yu.P., Master of Sports
Approach to the route: August 14, 2002. Summit reached: August 17, 2002. Return to base camp: August 17, 2002.

General photo of the summit

Route profile (right)

The Petreliusa river valley can be reached by a high-clearance vehicle (Gaz-66 etc.) — 15 km dirt road from the "Tirvas" sanatorium. Then on foot through the South Chorrgor pass — a good trail, approach time 2 h.

Panorama of the area. This is all the Chasnachorr massif

Ascent Graph

Technical Photo of the Route

Route Description

Approach to the South Chorrgor pass, from the KSS base side. Behind the pass — left into the cirque, under the wall. Good spot for a base camp. (Water from the lake.)

R0–R2: Ascend slabs to a huge slanting shelf with two large boulders. 100 m. 35° II+ cat. diff. Control point #1.

R2–R3: From the shelf through a crack 50 m. 45° III+ cat. diff. Good spot for a belay stance.

R3–R4: Further through the crack, transitioning into an inside corner 50 m. 50° IV cat. diff.

R4–R5: Up the inside corner onto a slab, to a slanting shelf 50 m. 60° IV cat. diff.

R5–R6: From the shelf through an inside corner — control point #2. (15 m. 70° V+ cat. diff.), transitioning into a wide crack under medium friends (35 m. 85° V+ cat. diff.), to a good shelf. Overnight stay possible on the shelf.

R6–R7: Key section of the route. Series of overhanging walls, all cracks are dead, holds are small or sloping. Micro-cams, thin pitons, and skyhooks are used. 5 m. 85° V, 7 m. 80° V, 3 m. 95° VI, 10 m. 85° V+, 8 m. 95° VI A3e, 6 m. 80° A3e VI, 10 m. 90° A3e VI. Movement is upwards and to the right, under overhangs. On the easing slope — a semi-hanging stance on removable bolts. Control point #3.

R7–R8: From the stance up the wall 10 m. 85° V+, no protection. Behind the wall is a wet inside corner with a dead crack leading under overhangs. 15 m. 70° V. Under the overhang — a semi-hanging stance.

R8–R9: Oblique the overhang to the right 7 m. 85° A2 VI. Exit from under the overhang (3 m. 100° VI), exit onto a wall with a dead crack, through it 15 m. 80° V to a good shelf. Control point #4.

R9–R10: Up the inside corner to the summit 50 m. 70° V.

Control point laid out with stones on the plateau, overnight stay possible. Rocks on the route are smooth, many cracks for very thin pitons. Horizontal pitons and friends work well. Free climbing level required for the route is 6B–6V. In polar day conditions (summer) it's possible to climb the route in a team of two in alpine style. No water on the route.

Descent from the summit: via the western spur of Chasnachorr peak. (No mountaineering gear required)

Emergency exit from the route: Via the ascent route.