Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Petreliusa via the "Center of the northern wall" route, category 5B, by the team "Big walls of small mountains" from July 18, 2003, to July 20, 2003.

2019

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Andreev Arkadiy Borisovich CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Pankov Maksim Anatolyevich CMS, Orlov Vladimir Alexandrovich 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Shumilov O. I.
1.4	Organization	FAMO
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
2.1	Region	Khibiny
2.2	Valley	Petreliusa River
2.3	Number of the section according to the 2013 classification table	8.6
2.4	Name and height of the summit	Petreliusa 1141 m.
	3. Route Characteristics
3.1	Route name	Center of the northern wall
3.2	Proposed category of difficulty	5B
3.3	Degree of route exploration	First ascent
3.4	Terrain characteristics of the route	Rocky
3.5	Route elevation gain	470 m.
3.6	Route length	560 m.
3.7	Technical elements of the route	II category rocks — 140 m., III category rocks — 0 m., IV category rocks — 130 m., V category rocks — 250 m., VI category rocks — 50 m., A1 — 5 m., A3 — 20 m.
3.8	Average steepness of the route	67.3°
3.9	Average steepness of the main part of the route	79.8°
3.10	Descent from the summit	Along the eastern spur (easy)
3.11	Additional route characteristics	No water on the route
	4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1	Time in motion	32 hours, 3 days
4.2	Overnights	In the base camp
4.3	Route processing time	20 hours, 2 days
4.4	Start of the route	6:00 July 18, 2003
4.5	Summit ascent	21:30 July 20, 2003
4.6	Return to the base camp	02:00 July 21, 2003
	5. Responsible for the Report
5.1	Full name, e-mail	Andreev A.B., keshan05@yandex.ru

II. Route Description:

Approach to the eastern pass of Petreliusa mountain from the KSS base. Before reaching the pass, ascend into the cirque under the wall. A good place for a base camp. "Water from melting snowdrifts at the base of the wall".

R0–R2: Ascend a steep snow slope under the rocks. 100 m, 30° II category. R2–R3: From the snow, transition to a 5 m, 60° III category slab. Traverse left along a 20 m, 30° II category shelf. A 5 m, 60° IV category wall. Traverse right and exit to a 20 m, 30° II category terrace. Used: 4 pitons. R3–R4: Ascend a 35 m, 70° IV+ category internal corner. Ascend a 15 m, 90° V+ category vertical wall to a shelf under a cornice. Control cairn 1. Used: 8 pitons, 4 nuts, 3 friends. R4–R5: Bypass the cornice on the right, 5 m, 95° V+ category. Exit to an internal corner, ascend 40 m, 80° V category. Bypass the cornice on the right, exit to a large shelf (dangerous due to rockfall!). Used: 10 pitons, 2 nuts, 2 friends. R5–R6: Ascend the wall on the left, 30 m, 70° IV category. Exit to an inclined shelf. Used: 5 pitons, 1 nut, 2 friends. R6–R7: Ascend a 40 m, 90° V+ category characteristic vertical internal corner to a shelf. Used: 12 pitons, 4 nuts, 2 friends. R7–R8: Ascend the wall, 30 m, 80° V category. Exit to a convenient shelf at the base of an internal corner. Used: 8 pitons, 2 nuts. R8–R9: Ascend an internal corner (right and up), 35 m, 65° IV category. Traverse right along a 5 m, 90° VI category vertical wall. Ascend 5 m, 90° VI category. Shelf. Used: 8 pitons, 2 nuts, 1 friend. R9–R10: Ascend a 10 m, 90° V+ category vertical wall under a cornice. A bolt (removable) under the cornice. Ascend 20 m, 90° A3 VI category through the cornice via a narrow crack. Exit to a small shelf under a wall. Traverse right, 7 m, 90° V category. Ascend 10 m, 85° V+. Narrow shelf, bolt (removable). Control cairn 2. Used: 17 pitons, 2 nuts, 3 friends. On the ITO — thin horizontal pitons; micro-stoppers, medium friends. R10–R11: From the shelf, traverse left, 5 m, 85° V category. Ascend an internal corner, 10 m, 85° V+ category. Ascend the wall, 15 m, 80° V category to a shelf. Used: 7 pitons, 2 nuts, 2 friends. R11–R12: Traverse right and up along a shelf, 15 m, 80° IV category. Ascend a 5 m, 95° A1 VI category overhanging internal corner to a shelf. Ascend the wall, 15 m, 90° V+ category. Exit to the base of a ruined chimney. Ascend the chimney, 15 m, 60° III category. Uncomfortable station in the chimney. Removable bolt. Used: 10 pitons, 2 nuts, 3 friends. On the ITO — a medium friend. R12–R13: Ascend the chimney, 10 m, 75° V category to a shelf. Then ascend left along an internal corner, 30 m, 70° IV category. Exit to the summit. Used: 5 pitons, 2 nuts, 1 friend.

The control cairn is made of stones on the plateau. The rocks on the route are partially destroyed, with many cracks for thin pitons. All types of pitons and protection elements — friends, stoppers — are suitable. The level of free climbing required for the route is 6a+–6b. In polar day conditions (summer), it is possible to complete the route in a team of two in alpine style. There is no water on the route. Descent from the summit: along the eastern spur of Petreliusa mountain. (No climbing equipment required) Emergency exit from the route: via the ascent route.

Panorama of the area ![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/LhWhjac7jGWBqg4C0E9IGyJhfZK↗ om66/img-0.jpeg)

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