Report

On the Ascent

via the central counterfort of the "Otkola" cirque, Takhtarvumchorr (S) (1058 m), "Olympic" route (first ascent by Ivanov D., 2010), cat. 3A, Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Khibiny (15.06.2014, 2nd ascent)

Apatity

2016

Ascent Passport

Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. "Otkola" cirque. Section number in the classification table: #8.6.1.
Name of the route — "Olympic", Takhtarvumchorr South, 1058 m, via the central counterfort of the "Otkola" cirque.
Proposed category of difficulty: 3A (first ascent: 24.07.2010, Ivanov D.E.);
Route type: rock.
Height difference — 320 m;

route length — 400 m; length of sections: cat. II — 144 m, cat. III — 225 m, cat. IV — 31 m.

Average slope — 50°; key sections up to 80°.

"Quick releases" used on the route:

friends and stoppers — 48 pcs;
left behind — 0 pcs.

Team's walking hours: 6 hours (excluding approach and descent).
Leader: Pochivalov S. — instructor 3rd cat.;

participants: Goloborodko A. — 2nd sports category; Shcherin I. — 2nd sports category.

Coach: Ivanov D.
Time on the route:

exit to the route — 9:30; reach the summit — 15:30; descent to the Maly Vudyavr lake valley — 17:00

Descent from the summit:

across the plateau to the south
then along the NE spur of Takhtarvumchorr (S) "by lifts" into the Ganesha cirque
then into the Maly Vudyavr lake valley.

Organization: Apatity-Kirov Federation of Alpinism.
Responsible for the report: Goloborodko A., goloborodkoalex@gmail.com

Area Map

Fig. 1. Area map (fragment, scale — 1:50 000)

Panorama of the area

1B, to "Otkol" via Geographers pass, Shumilov O., 1992
2B, "Roga", Shumilov O., 1992
2A, center of E wall in the ridge, Shumilov O., 1992
3B, 2Bz, "Otkola" couloir, Shumilov O., 1992
3A, to "Otkol" via E wall, Shumilov O., 1992
3B, "Olenevody", Proklov V., 2011
5A, "Otkol" via center of NE wall, Timoshenko D., 1993
5A, "Otkol" via center of N wall, Afanasiev V., 2004
2Bz, "Otkola" couloir from the north, Balagurin S., 2014
2B, "Pravee Otkola", Shumilov O., 1992
3A orig., "Olympic" via central counterfort, Ivanov D., 2010 Fig. 2. Ganesha cirque, photo from the southern slope of Takhtarporra

Orographic Scheme of the Area

Fig. 3. Orographic scheme of the area General photos of the routeFig. 4. Photo of the route from the side of Maly Vudyavr lake (end of summer)Fig. 5. Photo from the side of the northwestern end of the lake (mid-summer)

The "line" of the route has an S-shaped character, and therefore the profile of different parts of the route is viewed from different angles, with sections closest to the actual profile being:

R0–R4 on Fig. 5
R4–R7 on Fig. 4

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

2	-	5	-	60	45	III
				5	45	III
				15	70	IV
1	-	13	-	40	50	III

Route Description

Approach: from the crossing of the Vudyavryok river along the dirt road to the "Otkola" cirque, then along the trail under the central counterfort of the cirque (about an hour), along the talus of the left couloir from the CF, we pass above the belt of "ram's foreheads" to the beginning of a wide crack — a chimney, going to the right from the couloir

R0–R1: along inclined cracks, 40 m, 50°, cat. III, exit to an inclined shelf under overhanging rocks, then along two internal corners, 15 m, 70°, cat. IV, exit to smoothed "ram's foreheads", 5 m, 45°, cat. III.

R1–R2: through "ram's foreheads" and destroyed rocks, heading "to the right", following the principle "where it's easier to go", exit to a series of narrow inclined shelves, filled with water, 60 m, 45°, cat. III.

R2–R3: along a series of inclined rock shelves to the right, 60 m, 35°, cat. II+, then exit to a wide shelf at the base of a large oblique internal corner, to the right continues the internal corner — an inclined slab, ending with a ridge — the center of the counterfort.

R3–R4: along the internal corner (center of the internal corner is filled with water), movement along the inclined slab to the right is possible with a large number of cracks, exit to the center of the counterfort to the next belt of "ram's foreheads":

60 m
45°
cat. III+

R4–R5: along the center of the counterfort without a pronounced ridge part under a small wall:

60 m
45°
cat. III

R5–R6: along an alternation of small walls

10 m, 60°, cat. IV
6 m, 80°, cat. IV and horizontal shelves — exit to a weakly pronounced ridge, under a belay, to the right is a rock wall, station on a stone, 44 m, 40°, cat. II+.

R6–R7: along strongly destroyed rocks along the rock wall, exit to the plateau, 40 m, 35°, cat. II.

Descent: across the plateau to the south and then along the NE spur of Takhtarvumchorr (S) "by lifts" into the Ganesha cirque, then into the Maly Vudyavr lake valley.

Emergency descent: along the ascent route. Photo illustrations of the route