Report

On the Ascent

via the center of the counterforce to the right of the central counterforce of the "Otkol" cirque, v. Takhtarvumchorr (S) (1058 m)

"Bantik" route (first ascent by Ivanov D., 2010), cat. 2B diff., Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Khibiny (June 12, 2011, second ascent)

Apatity

2016

Ascent Passport

Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Classification table section number: 8.6.1.
Route name — "Bantik", Takhtarvumchorr South, 1058 m, via the center of the counterforce to the right of the central counterforce of the "Otkol" cirque.
Proposed difficulty category: 2B (first ascent: July 31, 2010, Ivanov D.E.)
Route type: rock (summer).
Elevation gain — 310 m.

Technical part length — 390 m.; section lengths: II cat. diff. — 340 m., III cat. diff. — 50 m.; average steepness of the key part — 40°; overall route steepness — 30°.

Pitons used on the route:

friends and nuts — 15 pcs.;
left behind — 0 pcs.

Team's total climbing hours: 4 (excluding approach and descent).
Leader: Ivanov D. — 2nd sports category

team members: Pochivalov S. — 3rd cat. instructor; Govdan V. — 2nd sports category; Goloborodko A. — 2nd sports category; Goloshchapov I. — 3rd sports category.

Coach: Ivanov D.
Time on the route:

start of ascent — 9:00; summit reached — 13:00. Descent from the summit: via the plateau to the south and then along the NE ridge of Takhtarvumchorr (S) "by lifts" to the Ganechina cirque, then to the valley of Lake Maly Vudyavr.

Organization: Apatity-Kirov Alpinism Federation.
Report responsible: Goloborodko A., goloborodkoalex@gmail.com.

Area Map

Fig. 1. Area map (fragment, scale — 1:50 000)

Area Panorama

1B, to "Otkol" via Geografov Pass, Shumilov O., 1992
2B, "Roga", Shumilov O., 1992
2A, center of the E wall of the ridge, Shumilov O., 1992
3A, 2Bz, "Otkol" couloir, Shumilov O., 1992
3A, to "Otkol" via E wall, Shumilov O., 1992
3B, "Olenеводы", Proklov V., 2011
5A, "Otkol" via center of NE wall, Timoshenko D., 1993
5A, "Otkol" via center of N wall, Afanasiev V., 2004
2Bz, "Otkol" couloir from the north, Balagurin S., 2014
2B, "Pravee 'Otkol'", Shumilov O., 1992
2B orig., "Bantik", Ivanov D., 2010 Fig. 2. Ganechina cirque, photo from the southern slope of Takhtarporr

Orographic Scheme of the Area

Fig. 3. Orographic scheme of the central part of Khibiny

General photo of the routeFig. 4. Photo of the route — front E

Due to the terrain features — the counterforce has an indistinct, heavily destroyed ridge and is located in the central part of the cirque; it is not possible to take a profile photo.

Route scheme in UIAA symbols


:--	:--	:--	:--	:--
1	-	-	-
160	25	I

Route Description

R0–R1: Ascent along the scree to the rocks, 160 m, 25°, I cat. diff. R1–R2: Through a shallow couloir, passage through the belt of moss-covered "ram's foreheads", then along the destroyed rocks to the inclined internal angle, simultaneous movement is possible with organization of protection through the terrain; anchor station on a rock, 140 m, 35°, II cat. diff.

R2–R3: Through the internal angle along the destroyed rocks and smoothed "ram's foreheads" along the indistinct ridge — exit under the next rock belt, 50 m, 45°, II+ cat. diff.

R3–R4: Along the moss-covered destroyed rocks — exit to a wide ledge, under a large wall — the key section of the route, 50 m, 40°, II+ cat. diff.

R4–R5: Along the wall along the crack — exit to a long narrow ledge; then slightly left — under the internal angle, 50 m, 50°, III cat. diff.

R5–R6: Through a small wall — exit to the destroyed rocks, along the destroyed rocks — to the gentle inclined slabs, 50 m, 35°, II+ cat. diff.

R6–R7: Along the inclined rock slabs, exit to the flattening, then left along the rocks to the plateau, 50 m, 25°, II cat. diff.

Descent: along the NE ridge of Takhtarvumchorr South to the Ganechina cirque;

Emergency descent: via the ascent route.

Photo illustrations