Peak Chernaya (1248.3) Route: via the southern ridge Approximate complexity category: 2A winter Leader: Maltsev S. L. Subpolar Urals, Rossomakha mountain range Section in KMGV – 8.3. E-mail – mr.zhur1958@mail.ru

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak Chernaya (1248.3) via the route: "Along the southern ridge".

The complexity level is approximately 2A category (winter) at the "Severnaya Vertikal" alpinist event (a joint project of JSC "Severgaztrans" and NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'") in 2016 (Class "First Ascent").

Region: Northwestern Federal District of the Russian Federation (NWFD), Komi Republic Mountain country: Subpolar Urals Gorge: Bolbanyu River valley Ridge: Rossomakha Peak: Chernaya (1248.3) Route: along the southern ridge Complexity category: approximately 2A category Route type: rock, winter Prepared by: S. L. Maltsev, Zhuravlev S. V. March 2016

Subpolar Urals, Chernaya mountain (1248.3), photo from space.

Fragment of the map of the General Staff of the Russian Federation M: 1 cm – 1000 m, latest edition, with refined peak heights. In the photo – Chernaya mountain (1248.1). Photo from the southwest from the Bolbanyu river valley. March 2016. Fragment of the map m: 1 cm – 1 km of the General Staff of the Russian Federation, photo of Chernaya mountain from the Bolbanyu river valley

Passport

Section number according to KMGV – 2010 – 8.3. Subpolar Urals, Rossomakha mountain range, Bolbanyu river valley.
Name of the peak: Chernaya height: 1248.3
Route: along the southern ridge.
Complexity category: proposed 2A category.
Route type – rock.
Route height difference: 710 m
Route length: 2100 m
Length and level of complexity of technical sections: 1 – 3 sections – 700 m, 2 – 3 sections – 150 m, 3 – 3 sections – 0 m, 4 – 0 sections – 0 m, 5 – 0 sections – 0 m, 6 – 0 sections – 0 m.
Average steepness: main part of the route – 45°. Key section – 65°.
Number of pitons used: Total used on the route: – rock pitons – 0 pcs – chocks – 3 pcs – stationary bolt pitons – 0 – ITO – 0 – removable bolt pitons – 0 Left "pitons" on the route: total – 0; including bolt pitons – 0.
Exit to the route – 6:00, April 10, 2016. Exit to the summit – 11:00, April 10, 2016. Return to BL – 17:00, April 10, 2016.
Team's walking hours: – 11 hours.
Leader: Maltsev Sergey Leonidovich (Ukhta, 1st sports category, 2nd category instructor-methodologist).

Participants:

Ivanenkov V. N. (Ukhta, 3rd sports category).
Artamonova E. M. (Ukhta, 3rd sports category).
Likhomanov V. V. (Arkhangelsk, 3rd sports category).
Trofimov S. N. (Ukhta, 3rd sports category).
Coach: Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilyevich (Syktyvkar, CMS, 1st category instructor-methodologist).

Peak description

Chernaya mountain is one of the peaks of the Rossomakha mountain range, located on the territory of the Municipal Formation "Urban District – Inta", in the Komi Republic, in the Northwestern Federal District of the Russian Federation. Geographically – in the central part of the Rossomakha ridge of the Subpolar Urals, in the Bolbanyu river valley, at the mouth of the right-bank tributary of the Cherny stream. Chernaya mountain is marked on the map-kilometer grid of the General Staff of the Russian Federation as an independent geographical object. The western slopes of the mountain are cut off by rock slabs, the eastern slopes are gentle. The southern ridge is well-defined and easily identifiable. The height of the Chernaya mountain peak is 1238.3 m. The name of the mountain is official, marked on the map of the General Staff of the Russian Federation.

The climbing interest in the main peak of Chernaya mountain is represented by:

routes from the Bolbanyu river valley along the counterforses of the western slope;
rocky southern ridge.

As part of the "Severnaya Vertikal" alpinist event, the route was passed and classified:

Chernaya mountain – "Along the southern ridge" – approximately 2A (category, rock, winter).

Route description: Chernaya mountain "Along the southern ridge" approximately 2A category (rock, winter).

Route: "Along the southern ridge" – logical, winter – combined, or summer – rock route, focused on educational and sports departments of climbers undergoing training under the Initial Training programs (NP-1, NP-2). The route allows to fully work out:

techniques of movement on snowy-icy slopes and rocky ridges;
insurance and self-insurance techniques on snowy-icy terrain and rocks in winter conditions.

The route is logical in orientation, the line goes along the pronounced rocky ridge.

Equipment

To complete the ascent as part of a sports group of 6 people on the route, the following special equipment is required:

personal – standard (crampons and ice axe are mandatory); public:

main rope 10 mm – 2 pcs × 50 m
chock elements – 4 pcs.
quickdraws – 4 pcs.
slings – 2 pcs.
ice screws – 2 pcs.

Approach

From the Zelannaya base, go down the Bolbanyu river valley along the right bank to the mouth of the Cherny stream. Then along the mouth of the Cherny stream, past the reindeer herders' camp (Erkuseyskaya camp) approach the base of the southern ridge. At the base of the ridge, organize the rope teams.

Technical part

Then move up along the destroyed rocky ridge on a shortened rope to the key section – the summit tower. Key section: ascent to the rocky summit tower.

Summit

The summit is a clearly defined rise in the ridge with a geodetic network benchmark.

Descent from the summit

Along the non-categorical eastern slope into the Cherny stream valley. Then – down the Cherny stream valley to the reindeer herders' camp (Erkuseyskaya camp), from the camp up the Bolbanyu river valley to the Zelannaya base.

Descent on skis or snowboards along the eastern slope is possible: