Peak 1309 (Peak Polarny) Route: via the northern ridge Category of difficulty Leader: Seryakov S.V. Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain range Section in KMGV — 8.3. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to Peak 1309 (Peak Polarny) via the route: "Via the northern ridge" approximately 2B category of difficulty (Combined) At the annual climbing event Cup of NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2015 (Fifth stage. Class "First Ascent").

Region: Ural Federal District of the Russian Federation (UFD), Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug of Tyumen Oblast Mountain country: Polar Urals Valley: Sob River valley Ridge: Raiiz mountain range, northwestern corrie Peak: 1309 (Peak Polarny) Route: via the northern ridge (combined) Category of difficulty: approximately 2B category of difficulty (combined) Prepared by: Seryakov S.V., Zhuravlev S.V. November 2015.

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1. Introduction

This document provides an overview of the key concepts and methodologies used in the study of quantum mechanics.

  • Fundamental principles
  • Mathematical formulations
  • Practical applications

2. Fundamental Principles

2.1 Wave-Particle Duality

Quantum mechanics introduces the concept of wave-particle duality, where particles such as electrons and photons exhibit both wave-like and particle-like properties. This duality is central to understanding the behavior of quantum systems.

2.2 Superposition

The principle of superposition states that a quantum system can exist in multiple states simultaneously until it is measured. This is mathematically represented by a wave function, denoted as |ψ⟩.

2.3 Uncertainty Principle

The Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle states that it is impossible to simultaneously know the exact position and momentum of a particle. This is expressed as: Δx ⋅ Δp ≥ ℏ/2, where Δx is the uncertainty in position, Δp is the uncertainty in momentum, and ℏ is the reduced Planck constant.

3. Mathematical Formulations

3.1 Schrödinger Equation

The Schrödinger equation is a fundamental equation in quantum mechanics that describes how the quantum state of a physical system changes over time. It is given by: iħ ∂/∂t Ψ(r, t) = Ĥ Ψ(r, t) where Ψ(r, t) is the wave function, Ĥ is the Hamiltonian operator, and Ĥ is the Hamiltonian operator.

3.2 Dirac Notation

Dirac notation is a convenient and convenient way to represent quantum states and operators. It uses bra‑ket notation, where the bra is replaced by a bra‑ket, and bra‑ket notation is used to represent quantum states and operators.

4. Practical Applications

4.1 Quantum Computing

Quantum computing leverages the principles of superposition and entanglement to perform computations that are infeasible for classical computers. Quantum bits, or qubits, are the fundamental units of quantum information.

4.2 Quantum Cryptography

Quantum cryptography uses the principles of quantum mechanics to secure communication. Quantum key distribution (QKD) is a cornerstone of quantum computing, where key distribution is used to identify key quantum states.

5. Conclusion

Quantum mechanics is a cornerstone of modern physics, providing a framework for understanding the behavior of particles at the smallest scales. Its principles and mathematical formulations have led to groundbreaking technologies and continue to drive innovation in various fields.

6. References

  • Griffiths, D. J. (2005). Introduction to Quantum Mechanics. Pearson.
  • Shankar, R. (2012). Principles of Quantum Mechanics. Plenum Press.img-1.jpeg

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Passport

  1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.

Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain range (northwestern corrie), Sob River valley.

  1. Name of the peak: 1309.0 (Peak Polarny)

height: 1309.0

  1. Route: via the western ridge.
  2. Category of difficulty: proposed 2B category of difficulty.
  3. Character of the route — combined.
  4. Height difference of the route: 615 m
  5. Length of the route: 1900 m
  6. Length of sections of the highest category of difficulty:

1 category of difficulty — 2 sections — 550 m, 2 category of difficulty — 2 sections — 650 m, 3 category of difficulty — 1 section — 40 meters, 4 category of difficulty — 0 sections — 0 m, 5 category of difficulty — 0 sections — 0 m, 6 category of difficulty — 0 sections — 0 m.

  1. Average steepness: main part of the route — 35°.

key section — 45°.

  1. Number of pitons used:

Total number used on the route:

  • rock pitons — 0
  • chocks — 0
  • stationary pitons — 0
  • ITO — 0
  • removable pitons — 0. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 0; including pitons — 0.
  1. Departure to the route — 7:30, September 19, 2015.

Ascent to the summit — 14:00, September 19, 2015. Return to the base camp — 18:00, September 19, 2015.

  1. Team's walking hours: — 10 hours 30 minutes.
  2. Leader:

Seryakov S.V. (Vorkuta, 2nd sports category)

Team members:

Salnikov S. (Vorkuta, 3rd sports category). Polikarpov A. (Vorkuta, 3rd sports category). Nifontov S. (Vorkuta, 3rd sports category). Sokolinsky R. (Vorkuta, 3rd sports category). Seropyan G. (Vorkuta, 3rd sports category).

  1. Coach: Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilyevich (Syktyvkar, Candidate Master of Sports, instructor-methodologist of the 1st category).

    Description of the peak

Peak 1309 (Peak Polarny) is one of the peaks of the Raiiz mountain range, located in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug (YNAO) of Tyumen Oblast, Ural Federal District of the Russian Federation, on the eastern slopes of the Polar Urals, on the northwest of the Raiiz mountain range, on the watershed of the mountain valleys of the rivers:

  • Nyrdvomen-Shor (north)
  • Sob (west)
  • Enga-Yu (southeast)

Peak 1309 (Peak Polarny) is a pronounced pyramid. Height — 1309.0 m. The name is unofficial but has become established in the tourist and climbing community, allowing the peak to be identified as an object of sports ascents.

The following routes are classified on Peak 1309 (Peak Polarny):

  1. "Via the southeastern ridge — 1B category of difficulty (combined)".
  2. "Via the western ridge" — 2A category of difficulty (winter).
  3. "Via the northeastern ridge — 2A category of difficulty (combined)".

The development of climbing resources continues. As part of the Cup of NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" in 2015, the following routes were ascended:

  • Via the northern ridge — 2B category of difficulty approximately (combined)
  1. Via the southern couloir of the western ridge and the western ridge — 1B category of difficulty (combined).
  2. Via the southern ridge — 2A category of difficulty (combined).
  3. Via the northern edge — 3A category of difficulty (rock).
  4. Via the northern ridge — 2B category of difficulty (combined)

Description of the route: "Via the northern ridge 2B category of difficulty approximately (combined)"

The route: "Via the northern ridge 2B category of difficulty approximately (combined)" is a typical training route of the second category of difficulty, with a full range of natural obstacles. The ascent on this route has category, as well as educational and sports practical significance, as it allows to master techniques of belaying and self-belaying on rock and snow relief during the ascent.

The route is ridge-like, which allows for maximum safety during training ascents in winter and summer.

Equipment

To complete the ascent as part of a training group of 6 people (five team members + instructor), the following special equipment is required on the route:

Personal (mandatory):

  • standard issue
  • crampons
  • ice axe

Team equipment:

  • main rope 10 mm × 50 m
  • rock hammer — 1 pc.
  • rock pitons — 6 pcs.
  • ice axe — 1 pc.
  • chocks — 6 pcs.
  • quickdraws — 6 pcs.
  • slings — 8 pcs.

Approach from the Polar Urals railway station via the Sob River valley:

  • in winter — on skis,
  • in summer — through mountain tundra.

The approach to the lake in the northern corrie, formed by the western ridge of Peak 1036 and the western ridge of Peak 1309 (Peak Polarny), takes 4 hours 30 minutes.

At the beginning of summer, it is necessary to consider the presence of a complex ford across the upper reaches of the Sob River. In the case of a high water level, the ford should be organized at a convenient location significantly above the entrance to the northwestern corrie. In the second half of summer, the ford does not present a problem.

The base camp can be conveniently set up near a nameless lake (elevation mark of the lake's water edge is 695 m) of the northern corrie on the scree fields of the mountain tundra.

  • Food preparation: stove, gas.

Strong winds are possible in the corrie, so it is recommended to protect the tents with stone (in winter — snow) walls.

From the lake, located on the line of the foot of the mountain, the route begins.

Technical part

From the lake, first across the scree, then across the destroyed rocks — exit to the plateau-like northern spur of the ridge, along it — to the scree slope leading to the confluence of the northern and western ridges of Peak Polarny. The spur is a convenient place to organize rope teams.

Along the scree slope, approach the destroyed rocks. Along the destroyed rocks, ascend to the junction of the northern and western ridges.

Movement does not cause great difficulties in orientation and finding the path of ascent, as there is a variety of relief:

  • ledges and steps,
  • cracks and crevices.

After exiting onto the ridge — movement to the east in the direction of the summit. The ridge is destroyed blocky rocks, "gendarmerie" are bypassed on the right. The pre-summit ridge is the key section of the route.

Key section of the route

The key section of the route is the pre-summit ridge. There is sufficient relief for organizing intermediate belay points.

After passing the key section, along the destroyed rocks of medium complexity, exit to the scree of the summit dome.

Summit

Pronounced, tour in the center of large stone blocks, marked with a wooden pole.

Descent from the summit

In the upper part, along the path of ascent, then down to the saddle before Peak 1082, from the saddle — into the northern corrie below the lake and exit to the base camp. Polar Urals. Raiiz mountain range. Northwestern corrie. Peak — 1309 (Peak Polarny). Route: "Via the northern ridge". Category of difficulty: approximately 2A category of difficulty (winter). Diagram in UIAA symbols.

1309 (Peak Polarny)img-2.jpeg

Polar Urals. Raiiz mountain range. Northwestern corrie. Peak — 1309 (Peak Polarny). Route: "Via the northern ridge". Category of difficulty: approximately 2B category of difficulty. Character of the route: combined.

(table of natural obstacles on the route)

Section numberLengthSteepnessRelief characterCategory of difficultyNumber of pitons/chocks
APPROACHFrom the base camp in the upper reaches of the Sob River to the sub-mountain lake to the start of the ascent 1.5 hours.
R0 — scree at the second mountain lake of the northwestern corrie.Entrance to the couloir leading to the Karovyy Pass. Northern
R0–R1 scree slope.45025Screen/c, n.c.Used 0/0 Left 0/0 Photo №1
R1–R2 Ascent to the plateau-like ridge.20040 — 45Destroyed rocks. Inclined slabs sprinkled with stones2-Used 0/0 Left 0/0 Photo №1
R2–R3 Approach under the scree slope.3005Screen.c.Used­-no 0/10 Left­-no 0/0 Photo №1, 2
R3–R4 ascent to the pre­summit35025 — 30Snow-scree slope.1Used­-no 1/6 Left­-no 0/0
ridge.Photo №2
:--::--::--::--::--::--:
R4–R5. Ascent to the pre­summit ridge.250 4040- 45Destroyed rocks.2Used­-no 2/8 Left­-no 0/0 Photo №3
R5–R6 Ascent along the pre­summit ridge, bypassing the pre­summit gendarme (on the right)350 1520 45Rocky ridge of large rock blocks, partially narrow.2Used­-no 0/0 Left­-no 0/0 Photo №4–6
R6–R7 Ascent to the summit along medium-blocky scree.5015- 20Destroyed rocks1, n/cUsed­-no 0/0 Left­-no 0/0 Photo №6
R7– summit 1309 (Peak Polarny)Pyramid-shaped, pronounced, tour in the center, marked with a wooden pole.Photo №­ 7
DESCENTalong the path of ascent along the pre-summit ridge, further down to the saddle under Peak 1082. From the saddle — north. Photo №­ 8

Summary

Length of the route — 1900 m. Average steepness — 40°. Character of the relief — combined.

Technical sections:

  • 1 category of difficulty — 2 sections — 550 m
  • 2 category of difficulty — 2 sections — 900 m
  • 3 category of difficulty — 0 sections — 0 m
  • 4 category of difficulty — 0 sections — 0 m
  • 5 category of difficulty — 0 sections — 0 m
  • 6 category of difficulty — 0 sections — 0 m

Number of pitons and chocks used: 0/0 pcs. Number of pitons and chocks left: 0/0 pcs.

Sources

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