Passport

  1. Class of rock climbing ascents.

  2. Sierra Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).

  3. El Capitan peak, South-East wall (Flight of the Albatross route).

  4. Proposed category of complexity 6B cat. sl.

  5. Height difference — 970 m, route length — 1150 m (wall), length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 1130 m, of which 6 cat. sl. — 470 m, average steepness of the route — 84°.

  6. Means used for insurance and I.T.O. (in the denominator):

    Rock HooksChocksBolts for ITOSkyhook Used
    48+5*279+6*51*28
    5026051

    * — stationary on the route. Here, 2–3 piton anchors at belay stations are not taken into account.

  7. Team's walking hours — 40.5 hours. Days on the route — 3.5

  8. Overnights: 3 — on a platform.

  9. Participants: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich MS Oleinikov Yuri Vladimirovich MS

  10. Coach: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich MS

  11. Exit to the route: September 29, 2000 (6:30) Summit: October 2, 2000 (9:30) Return to BL: October 2, 2000 (13:00)

  12. Organization: Alpc Club of Magnitogorsk.

Participants: Igolkin V. I. Oleinikov Yu. V.

Address: 455000, Magnitogorsk, Lenin Ave., 37-23, tel. (3511) 21-10-24 wk., 32-71-86 (Igolkin V. I.) img-0.jpeg

Overnight stays and dates Igolkin–Oleinikov — pairs Soldatov–Zaitov

  1. Lurking Fear
  2. Dihedral Wall
  3. Cosmos
  4. Excalibur
  5. Salathé Wall
  6. Flight of the Albatross
  7. The Shield
  8. Muir Wall
  9. Triple Direct
  10. The Nose

El Capitan

Flight of the Albatross

Route diagram in UIAA symbols (lower part)

HooksChocksBoltsSky HooksNotes / TimeSectionCat. Diff.Length (m)Steepness (°)
210--R13–R14V+ A14075
310--30.09 6:30R12–R13VI A24075
312129.09 20:00R11–R12VI A24575
-7--Mammoth TerracesR10–R11V+3075
-7--R9–R10V-3765
1+2*9+1*--R8–R9V3765
28--R7–R8V+ A13785
124*-R6–R7V+ A14070
115*1R5–R6V+ A13765
-10--R4–R5V+ A13575
29--R3–R4V+ A13375
17+1*--R2–R3V+ A13085
-12+1*--R1–R2V+ A12080
29.09 6:30R0–R1V+ A15080

Route diagram in UIAA symbols (upper part)

HooksChocksBoltsSky HooksNotes / TimeSectionCat. Diff.Length (m)Steepness (°)
-2--2.10 9:30R29–R30V-6070
-5--R28–R29V A12785
1+5*31*-R27–R28V+ A12595
58--2.10 6:30R26–R27V+ A13385
29--1.10 19:30R25–R26VI A23385
-73*-R24–R25V+ A14085
221+1*12*5R23–R24VI A24795
324+2*3*5ShieldR22–R23VI A343100
-220*-CANOER21–R22VI A233100
5211*1R20–R21VI A247100
4226*2R19–R20VI A247110
528+1*4*1030.09 19:00R18–R19VI A3+47110
218--R17–R18VI A14095
315+1*2*3R16–R17VI A24795
-2--R15–R16III2050
-7--R14–R15V5065
img-0.jpegimg-0.jpeg

Sources

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