Report

on the ascent of the FAIS team from Moscow to the summit of Haina Brakk 5852 m (Shipton Spire) via the right part of the SE wall (first ascent, proposed 6B category of difficulty)

Captain: Saveliev D.S. Coach: Saveliev D.S.

Haina Brakk 5852 m. Haina Brakk 5852 m. Ascent schedule

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

Organizational and tactical plan of the ascent

The tactical plan was built as follows - due to the remote location of the summit from the base camp, the team spent several days carrying equipment to the wall. Then the team completely broke away from the ground. After breaking away, they tried to apply the so-called "capsule" style of ascent.

The route choice fell on a logical line in the right part of the wall, clearly visible from below: a thin crack led to a huge internal corner in the upper part. The route did not intersect with any of the neighboring ones until the ridge. It turned out to be a completely independent line.

During the ascent, the team encountered a large number of cornices and overhanging sections.

The use of equipment on the route was determined by the relief features. Many wet, moss-filled cracks. At the same time, anchor hooks and Fifi hooks were mainly used for protection and passage.

For equipment stations, at least one bolt was used.

No bolts were used for intermediate protection, except for the section R22-R23, a smooth thirty-meter slab, where 3 pieces had to be hammered in for protection.

Two two-person hanging platforms were used for bivouac. The amount of water taken was equivalent to 150 liters, based on 2.5 liters per person per day for 15 days. The total starting weight at the time of departure was approximately 250 kg.

The cargo was packed in haul bags and pulled up the wall using a pulley system. The descent from the summit was made via the ascent route.