Taralgaq (E) – Taralgaq (W) Traverse Drakyn A.V. Altai 1.3

Passport

1. Category — first ascent.
2. Altai, South-Chuyskiy Ridge, Akkol river gorge.
3. Taralgaq (E) – Taralgaq (W) traverse. 3550 m.
4. 2B cat. dif. first ascent is proposed (Taralgaq (E) via E ridge 2A cat. dif.).
5. Descent 1350 m, length 3400 m.
6. Pitons were not used.
7. Moving time 11 hours.
8. Non-stop ascent.
9. Team of two: Drakyn A.V. — CMS, Neyaskina O.N. — 2nd sports category.
10. Coach Drakyn A.V. — 1st cat. instructor № 68.
11. Ascent made on May 7, 2001.
12. Organisation — ZSTPS.

Taralgaq (E) – Taralgaq (W) traverse of 2B category of difficulty

The base camp is located at the confluence of the Turaoyuk and Akkol rivers, at the foot of Taralgaq. From the camp, cross Turaoyuk river and ascend in the direction of the shoulder of the mountain, located above the river canyon. Ascend to the level of the shoulder along grassy and talus slopes, and occasionally rock outcrops. The slope merges into a weakly expressed eastern ridge. The ridge is extended; motion along it is partly simultaneous, partly alternate. Protection via protrusions. The ridge leads to the north-eastern summit ridge, which has sections requiring alternate movement in its lower part. The ridge becomes simpler in its upper part. It leads to the eastern summit.

The ascent to the eastern summit is rated 2A cat. dif. The first ascent was made by a team of two: Semenov S. and Dumayskaya E. on May 3, 2001. The height is estimated as 3550 m.

Further movement to the western summit goes along the north-eastern ridge. This section is technically more difficult than the previous ones. It has many short sections, 15–20 metres long, requiring alternate movement. Descent from the eastern summit is mostly on the right, and the ascent to the western summit is mostly on the left.

The time it takes to get from the eastern to western summit is 1–1.5 hours. Descend via the ascent route.