1.2.98
Climbing Passport
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Climbing area: Altai Republic, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
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Climbing type: rock climbing.
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Climbing route: Turist peak 3200, Northwest edge.
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Difficulty category: 2B.
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Route characteristics:
- length of sections with 2A–2B difficulty category: 400 m
- length of sections with 3A difficulty category: 20 m
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2 protection elements used on the route.
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Climbing hours: 14 hours.
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Number of nights: none.
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Team leader: Sis'ko Viktor Albertovich CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports).
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Participants and their qualification:
- Atsuta Sergey Borisovich III sports rank
- Ustinov Andrey Pavlovich III sports rank
- Kablukov Viktor Valentinovich III sports rank
- Ilyunin Danila Borisovich III sports rank
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Team coach: Laptenok Valery Dmitrievich MS (Master of Sports).
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Date of departure on the route: July 26, 2002.
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Date of return from the route: July 26, 2002.
Section R1–R2
Route description: Ascent to Turist peak – 2B difficulty category.
Departure from the base camp located at the "Orbita" glacier campsite at 7:00. Ascent via talus slope to the saddle between Sibiryak peak and Glyaciolog peak – 1 hour. Descent from the saddle and onto the Glyaciolog glacier using crampons. The glacier is gentle. Traveling from the saddle and across the glacier to the start of the route – 1 hour. The route begins with a distinct scree-cum-boulder field starting from the lower part of the glacier. Beginning work on the route at 9:00.
Passage of section R0–R1 with 2A–2B difficulty category – 2 hours 30 minutes. Simultaneous belay. Start of the route:
- boulders piled up by the glacier.
- The route then proceeds along ledges.
Passage of section R1–R2 with 3A difficulty category – 45 minutes. Internal corner with a crack. Two protection elements used. Alternating belay.
Passage of section R2–R3 with 2A difficulty category – inclined slabs, simultaneous belay – 15 minutes.
R3–R4 scree ridge, simultaneous belay. Heavily destroyed rocks. Before reaching the summit – snowy ledges.
Reaching the summit at 12:00. Descent:
- to the saddle between Turist peak and Glyaciolog peak with 1B–2A difficulty category.
- Then via talus slope to the Glyaciolog glacier.
Return to the base camp at 15:00.
