Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Neftekhimikov via the North-Eastern buttress route, proposed category 4A difficulty

Ulan-Ude 2017

Ascent Passport

Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
Summit — Neftekhimikov (2746 m), NE buttress.
Proposed — 4A — first ascent.
Route type — rock.
Route length: 725 m.
Pitons left on the route: total: 0; including bolted pitons 0.
Total used on the route:
- bolted pitons — 0
- rock pitons — 10
- chocks (including friends) — 27
Team's climbing hours — 11 hours.
Leader: Dashy V. Ayusheev (Candidate for Master of Sports)

Participants:
- Maxim B. Badmaev (2nd sports category)
- Artem Yu. Kravtsov (2nd sports category)
Team coach: Dashy V. Ayusheev (Candidate for Master of Sports), 2nd category instructor.
Approach to the route:

Departure from Base Camp: 06:00, June 24, 2017 Start of work on the route: 08:00, June 24, 2017 Reaching the summit: 14:00, June 24, 2017 Return to Base Camp: 17:00, June 24, 2017

General photo

Technical photo

Area panorama

Area map

Section	Chocks	Rock pitons	Route scheme in UIAA symbols	Length (m)	Average slope (°)	Category
R12–R13	-	-		90	35	I
R11–R12	2	-		40	50	III+
R10–R11	-	-		90	40	II
R9–R10	4	1	Photo #6	60	55	III+
R8–R9	3	3	Photo #5	60	60	IV
R7–R8	4	1		55	70	IV+
R6–R7	3	-	Photo #4	50	55	III
R5–R6	7	2		55	75	IV+
R4–R5	-	-	Photo #3	25	30	I
R3–R4	6	2	Photo #2	50	75	IV+
R2–R3	3	1	Photo #1	25	65	IV
R1–R2	-	-		60	40	II
R0–R1	2	-		60	55	III+