As­cend pass­port to the peak Kry­lya So­ve­tov 3341 m, via East­ern ridge, cat. 2B.

1. East­ern Sa­yan, Bol­shoy Sa­yan ridge, Mo­gu­vek gorge, sec­tion 6.1.1.

2. As­cend to the peak Kry­lya So­ve­tov (3341 m), via East­ern ridge.

3. Pro­posed cat. 2B, first as­cend.

4. Route char­ac­ter: rocky.

5. Height dif­fer­ence 300 m, length 630 m, av­er­age steep­ness 35°.

6. Pit­ons driven: rocky and заклад­ных 14.

7. Team's walk­ing hours — 8 h.

8. No over­night stays on the route.

9. Group:

Afa­na­syev A.E. MS, Il'inskiy V.A. 3rd sports cat., Ki­ki­na E.I. 1st sports cat.

10. Coach Afa­na­syev A.E. MS
11. As­cend to the peak and re­turn on May 4, 2012.

Route de­scrip­tion of as­cend to the peak Kry­lya So­ve­tov 3341 m via East­ern ridge, cat. 2B.

Ap­proach to the Pog­ra­nich­ny pass from the base camp near the for­est bound­ary takes 5 h. Fur­ther West along the flat ridge, about 1 h walk with rest, to the sharp ridge. Be­fore the sharp ridge, belay is nec­es­sary.

Sec­tion 0–1 60 m. I+ Snow slope 40° to the left of the ridge. Sec­tion 1–2 70 m. II– Down­hill to the left of the ridge along the snow slope 45°. Down 25 m, up 45 m. Ex­it to the saddle in the South­ern spur. Sec­tion 2–3 20 m. 80° III– Rap­pel into the third de­pres­sion to the left of the East­ern ridge. 2 h work from the start of the sharp ridge. Sec­tion 3–4 120 m. 40° I+ To the left of the ridge along the snow, tra­verse with height gain. Ex­it to the ridge. Sec­tion 4–5 80 m. I+ Tra­verse to the right of the ridge along the talus slope 40°. Ap­proach to a dis­tinct cre­vice with North-East ex­po­sure. Sec­tion 5–6 30 m. 80° IV– Cre­vice. (5 belay points). Sec­tion 6–7 70 m. 40° II– Couloir up­wards to the left. (2 belay points). Sec­tion 7–8 60 m. 60° IV– One-sided in­ner cor­ner up­wards to the right. Along the right edge plate. Key sec­tion of the route. Ex­it to a rocky out­crop. (5 belay points). Sec­tion 8–9 50 m. 55° III+ Rock ter­rain of me­dium dif­fi­culty, re­li­able. (2 belay points). Sec­tion 9–10 70 m. 10° I– Rocky ridge. Ex­it to the peak. De­scent along the ridge to the West to­wards peak Avi­a­tor 40 m. Fur­ther down­wards to the right along the de­scend­ing couloir, ap­prox. cat. 1. One sports sec­tion 20 m. Up­per part — talus with loose rocks on a 40° slope. Lower part — snow-filled couloir. Pos­si­ble ava­lanche dan­ger! There is a clas­si­fied route 2A cat. to the peak along the North­ern ridge.

4. Kry­lya So­ve­tov in the Mun­ku-Sardyk mas­sif

¹

6, view of sec­tion R0

9. Sec­tion R4.

Tran­si­tion to the in­ner cor­ner.

12, Sec­tion R7–R8.

15, on peak Kry­lya So­ve­tov.

Footnotes

1. 46, peak Kry­lya So­ve­tov from North-East. ↩