St. Petersburg Alpine Federation.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Sel'dy (3664 m) via the southwest couloir, cat. difficulty 2A.img-0.jpeg

Instructor: Belyankina N. P. Coach: Kiselev D. M.

Climbing Passport:

  1. Eastern Caucasus, Chehy-chay gorge, area 2.10.
  2. Sel'dy summit via the southwest couloir.
  3. Cat. difficulty 2A.
  4. Rock class
  5. Elevation gain 370 m.
  6. Route length 950 m.
  7. On the route, 4 anchor bolts, 3 chocks, and 4 slings were used for protection (the group moved simultaneously).
  8. Climbing time 3.5 hours
  9. Instructor: Belyankina Natalya Pavlovna, CMS.

Par­ti­ci­pants:

  • Bon­dare­va Ekaterina, badge
  • Ivanov Igor, badge
  • Ka­zan­tse­va Ma­riya, badge
  • She­ve­lev Mak­sim, badge
  1. De­par­ture from Ku­rush village: February 19, 2025, at 4:00 AM

Arrival at the bivouac at 7:00 AM. De­par­ture from the bivouac at 7:45 AM. Start of the route at 8:45 AM. Sum­mit at 12:30 PM. Descent: February 19, 2025, at 2:30 PM (training rappels via the ascent route).

  1. Or­ga­ni­za­tion: St. Pe­ter­sburg Al­pine Fed­er­a­tion, "United Moun­tain Club" ("UMC").

    Area Description.

Ku­rush village is lo­cated at an el­ev­a­tion of 2500 m and is within a four-to-five-hour drive from Ka­spiy­sk city. The village has two small grocery stores where one can buy a min­i­mum set of prod­ucts and house­hold goods. There are also sev­er­al guest houses ac­com­mo­dat­ing from three to 12 peo­ple. The EMERCOM post is lo­cated in the set­tle­ment. The lo­cals are friendly and re­spon­sive. MTS cellular net­work is sta­ble, and Beeline occasionally has cov­er­age.

The set­tle­ment is sur­round­ed by:

  • the Eny­dag massif to the east,
  • Ba­zar­dü­zü to the south,
  • Shal­buz­dag mountain to the north-east.

The path from the village to­wards the Eny­dag massif and Ba­zar­dü­zü leads through the Chehy-chay gorge, lo­cated 240 m be­low the village. The gorge is home to Leonov P. G.'s alpine camp and a bor­der guard post.

The Sel'dy summit is a con­ti­n­u­a­tion of the west­ern wall of the Eny­dag massif and is lo­cated in its south­ern part. The area has routes rang­ing from 1B to 6B cat. difficulty. When vis­it­ing the area, it is nec­es­sary to ob­tain a per­mit from the FSB of the Re­pub­lic of Dagestan.

Area map (fig. 1)img-1.jpeg

Route Description

The 2A and 2B cat. difficulty routes have a com­mon start and di­verge on a rocky shoul­der af­ter about 220 m.

Fig. 2 (red line — route 2B, blue — 2A)img-2.jpegFig. 3 (start of the route)img-3.jpegFig. 4 (en­trance to the couloir)img-4.jpegFig. 5 (as­cend­ing to the shoul­der)img-5.jpegFig. 6 (view of the couloir from the shoul­der)img-6.jpegFig. 7 (shoul­der)img-7.jpegFig. 8, 9 (couloir above the shoul­der)img-8.jpeg img-9.jpeg

1 Fig. 10, 11, 12 (crux)

  • img-10.jpeg
  • img-11.jpeg

Digitized by Googleimg-12.jpegFig. 13 (exit to the plateau).img-13.jpegFig. 14 (de­scent via the as­cent route)img-14.jpegFig. 15 (route sche­ma)img-15.jpeg

List of Equip­ment Used.

  1. Dy­na­mic ropes 3 pcs., 50 m each.
  2. Ca­m­alots 3 pcs.
  3. Ex­pen­da­ble ropes 4 pcs., 6 m each.
  4. An­chor bolts 5 pcs.
  5. Chocks 3 pcs.
  6. Quickdraws 60 cm 5 pcs.
  7. Sling­s 180–240 cm, 2 pcs.
  8. Jum­mar 1 pc.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment