Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KNYAZHNA OLGA VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 3B BY THE TEAM OF THE MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM DECEMBER 31, 2021, TO DECEMBER 31, 2021
2022
I. Climbing Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Mendin Vladimir Yuryevich — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Gurenko Taras Yuryevich — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Yakovenko Alexander Nikolayevich — Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Mountaineering Camps Management |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | From the Krestovy Pass to the Shaviklde summit |
| 2.2 | Valley | Dzheyrakh |
| 2.3 | Section number according to the 2013 classification table | - |
| 2.4 | Name and height of the summit | Mt. Knyazhna Olga, 2929 m |
| 2.5 | Geographical coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinates (1) | |
| 3. Characteristics of the Route | ||
| 3.1 | Name of the route | Eastern Ridge |
| 3.2 | Proposed category of difficulty | 3B |
| 3.3 | Degree of route development | First ascent |
| 3.4 | Nature of the route terrain | Rocky |
| 3.5 | Height difference of the route (altimeter or GPS data) | 800 m |
| 3.6 | Length of the route (in meters) | 1990 m |
| 3.7 | Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of varying difficulty with terrain type) | Category I rocks — 850 m. Category II rocks — 990 m. Category III rocks — 50 m. Category IV rocks — 65 m. Category V rocks — 35 m. Rappel descent (on descent) — (6 ropes, 240 m) |
| 3.8 | Descent from the summit | Via the 3B category route on the Eastern Ridge |
| 3.9 | Additional characteristics of the route | No water along the route; should be brought along. After rain or fresh snow, grassy slopes can be very slippery. |
| 4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions | ||
| 4.1 | Time of movement (team's walking hours, in hours and days) | 1 day, 11 hours from the Keli tower complex to the summit and back |
| 4.2 | Overnights | None |
| 4.3 | Departure onto the route | 6:30; December 31, 2021 |
| 4.4 | Arrival at the summit | 13:20; December 31, 2021 |
| 4.5 | Return to the base camp | 18:30; December 31, 2021 |
| 5. Person Responsible for the Report | ||
| 5.1 | Full name, e-mail | Mendin Vladimir Yuryevich, vumendin@gmail.com |
II. Description of the Ascent
1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
1.1. General photo of the summit
Summit Knyazhna Olga, December 31, 2021, photo from the Kuleylam Pass. Photo by Taras Gurenko, 2200 m. Photo 1.
1.2. Photopanorama of the area
Photo by Taras Gurenko. From the Kyazi camp. Photo 2.
1.3. The climbing object — Mt. Knyazhna Olga, 2929 m, is located in the Republic of Ingushetia, Dzheyrakhsky district, Tsей-Лоам ridge (Rocky ridge) in the Caucasus mountain system.
2. Characteristics of the Route
2.1. Technical photograph of the route
Photo 5. From the Kyazi camp. Author: Taras Gurenko.
3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
3.1. Brief description of the route passage
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3.2. Photo of the team on the summit at the control tour.
3.3. The route turned out to be logical
Practically every 50 m, there are convenient places to organize an insurance station where several people can gather. Throughout the entire route, there is a connection: in the lower part, there is cellular communication, radio communication is unstable. Recommendation to future climbers: hooks, anchors, and medium-sized protection work best. Be careful! On the descent, 5 rappel stations are equipped; do not mistake the ridge (in the middle of the descent, it splits into two). An ice axe or trekking poles may come in handy because the grass can be very slippery. Descent is via the ascent route.
This route was completed on December 31, 2021. Throughout the entire route, specifically from section R5 to the summit, there were no signs of any human activity. Along the way, we did not encounter any constructed tour or left sports equipment, which suggests that we have passed a new line on a nameless summit. On it, we built a good tour and left a note in a plastic container.
Based on the objective complexity of the technical part of the route on Mt. Knyazhna Olga via the eastern ridge and comparing it with other routes previously completed by Mendin V.Yu. and Gurenko T.Yu., it is proposed to classify it as category 3B.