Balyk via the South Ridge (Route 1B cat. dif.). The path from the settlement of Verkhniy Baksan to the scree under the South Ridge of Artkol peak is described in routes 4 and 8. From here, follow the right bank of the Ikeras River, then Subashi River, to reach the scree of the upper plateau in the Subashi gorge.
From the plateau, ascend via scree and broken simple gentle rocks to the gentle snowy South Ridge of Balyk peak. From here:
- initially along a gentle,
- then along a steeper simple snowy ridge — ascent to the South shoulder.
From the col, via simple rocks and connecting ridges alternating with sharp snowy crests (cornices!) — ascent to the summit of Balyk.
From the scree — 3–3.5 hours.
Descent:
- via the ascent route,
- or along the East Ridge.
Duration of the route — 2 days. “Baksan Valley”, A.F. Naumov