Gvandra in Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpine route

From the Myrdal bivouac, ascend via talus and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb them to reach the plateau of the Myrdal glacier. On the right part of the glacier, via a snow-ice slope, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the right, reach the Ak-Tyube pass, located to the left of the Gvandara Malaya peak. From the bivouac — 2.5 hours.

At the pass, turn left and follow the snowy ascents of Gvandara Vostochnaya's eastern ridge to its rocky section:

• Bypass the rocks on the left, along the boundary between snow and rock (protection needed!);
• Then, ascend along the 300-meter snowy ridge — a "knife-edge" (beware of cornices!) to the subpeak.

By the end of summer, there may be exposed sections with regelation ice on the ridge.

Possibly of interest to you: msklaser.ru↗ — metal flashlights at the best prices in Moscow!

From the subpeak, follow the left side of the ridge (with huge cornices on the right!) with steep snowy ascents to reach Gvandara Vostochnaya. From Ak-Tyube pass — 4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Possibly of interest to you.

Recommendations

• Do not start the route immediately after snowfall — wait at least two days.

From the website sk-greta.ru↗