Рис. 32

5. As­cen­sion to the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3700 m) from the north — for the category of dif­fi­cul­ty (fig. 32)

From the Dombay po­la­na along the trail to the ri­ver cros­sing through the Dombay ri­ver (2 hours). Af­ter cros­sing the ri­ver, as­cend along the gras­sy slo­pes, scree and ba­ra­ny­i lbam (rams' fore­heads) on the left side of the I­na glacier. Along the glacier up­wards to the snow plat­eau, then to the right to the ba­ra­ny­i lbam, up­wards along them to the scree and to the left along the massif of the I­na peak to the first gla­cier couloir (the path is dan­ge­rous due to rock­fall from the I­na peak!).

Along the couloir to the left of the I­na peak up­wards to the ridge. Fea­tures of the couloir:

• In the lower part — snow and ice (in the second half of sum­mer — ice)
• In the up­per part — rocky
• Tra­ver­sed in teams (dan­ge­rous due to rock­fall!)

On the ridge — a bi­vou­ac site. From the Dombay po­la­na 7–8 hours.

From the ridge along the cre­vas­sed glacier and snow plat­eau to the right up­wards along the East peak of Dzhuguturluchat to the north ridge of the West peak. Along the steep snow slo­pe on the left side of the ridge up­wards to a 5-meter rusty wall with a steep­ness of 80°. Up the wall (2 pitons) and fur­ther along the wea­the­red rocks, slabs and fis­sure on the left side of the ridge — exit un­der a 3-meter wea­the­red wall and through it — to a plat­form (sui­ta­ble for bi­vou­ac). From the plat­form as­cend to a wide ledge and along it to the left to a double fis­sure. Af­ter pas­sing 20 m along the fis­sure, exit to a small ridge de­scen­ding from the peak to the north-east. Fur­ther by tra­ver­se to the left along the ledges through a ridge, again along the ledges — to the east ridge and along it to the right to the peak. From the ridge 6–7 hours. Al­most the whole path is dan­ge­rous due to rock­fall! Des­cent along the ascent path 4–5 hours. On steep sec­tions, des­cent by rap­pel­ling.

Re­com­men­da­ti­ons for clim­bers

1. Num­ber of par­ti­ci­pants in the group — not more than 6 peo­ple.
2. Ini­tial bi­vou­ac — ridge to the left of the I­na peak.
3. Time of de­par­ture from the bi­vou­ac — not la­ter than 4:00 am.
4. Spe­cial equip­ment for a group of 4 peo­ple: a) main rope — 2×40 m; b) ex­pen­da­ble re­p­cord — 8 m; c) rocky pitons — 10; d) ice pitons — 2 (in the second half of sum­mer); e) rocky ham­mers — 2; f) ca­ra­bi­ne­rs — 8–10; g) cra­mp­ons — 4 pairs
5. Pos­si­ble bi­vou­ac sites: 1st — above the 3-meter wea­the­red wall; 2nd — to the left of the peak on the ridge.